Terrarium. DIY terrarium Plastic terrarium for tarantula

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The first question that arises before someone who decides to get a tarantula spider is where and in what room should it be kept? There are certain requirements for a terrarium for keeping tarantulas. Firstly , it should be enough spacious , a vertical type for arboreal species and a horizontal one for terrestrial spiders, and so that the corresponding living surface (the walls of terrariums for arboreal species, the bottom for terrestrial ones) is at least twice the length of the maximum span of the spider’s legs. On the other side

, it is not advisable to keep tarantulas in very large containers, since in this case additional problems arise both with maintaining a constant regime of humidity and temperature, and with the detection of food objects by spiders. Very important point , which must be taken into account when equipping a terrarium, is also that it must be safe both for the spider itself and for its owner. Special attention

care must be taken to exclude the possibility of your pet escaping from it and, accordingly, to also exclude the possibility of food insects escaping from the terrarium. You should definitely remember that when keeping terrestrial tarantulas, you cannot use high containers, since a heavy spider that has climbed high on the wall can fall from it and be damaged! The tarantula's abdomen is extremely vulnerable, and rupture is one of the common causes of death for spiders in captivity. And for the types of genera

Avicularia, Poecilotheria, Psalmopoeus and other arboreal tarantulas, on the contrary, the height of the terrarium is one of the determining factors for the successful maintenance and breeding of them in culture. For terrariums of all types, good equipment is required. ventilation.

. It is especially important when keeping tarantula species belonging to groups 1 and 3 For arboreal species, it is necessary to vertically install a piece of tree bark (cork, oak, Amur velvet, dead pine) into the terrarium at one of the far corners to provide the possibility of arranging a shelter. For

In general, there are no specific types of terrariums for tarantulas. They can be contained in any containers, food containers or standard boxes designed for keeping reptiles, as long as they meet the requirements stated above. It is widespread to keep newborn spiders for the first time in photo-cassette boxes, in which small holes are made in the lid and on the sides.

By and his hobby colleagues have developed a special type of terrarium, which is not fundamentally different from that for small lizards. He is cubic, horizontal (for terrestrial tarantulas) or vertical (for arboreal) container, made of organic or silicate glass, with a top and rear walls ventilation made of fine metal mesh. The removable door is located in the front, tightly fitting to the ends of the sides, its lower part is installed in the grooves, and the upper part is fixed with special magnets or using furniture latches (it is also possible to use a reliable fastener of any type).

Such terrariums are practical for keeping and caring for tarantula spiders and have decorative look, can be combined in two or three sections, and can also be easily installed in specially manufactured racks of several pieces.

In conclusion, we note that the location of the terrariums can be chosen arbitrarily, depending on the home environment of the interior of the living space.

But it must be remembered that Under no circumstances should the terrarium be exposed to direct sunlight., avoid drafts, and also the fact that for some species it is still desirable to exclude any factors of disturbance.

Usually, spiders of the tarantula or tarantula species are purchased as pets. This is due to its safety, as well as its attractive appearance and impressive size compared to other spiders. The arrangement of terrariums for their residence is quite similar, but it is worth paying attention to the fact that tarantulas are more common and live both in desert areas and in tropical forests. Before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the living conditions of the spider, the temperature and humidity of that climate, and create an internal environment based on these conditions.

Arranging a terrarium is a rather labor-intensive process, since it is necessary not only to create as close as possible to natural conditions climate and terrain, but also to provide a safe place for spiders to hunt.

Typically, terrariums come in two types: horizontal and vertical. Horizontal ones are designed for spiders that live and hunt on the ground. Vertical ones are designed for those who hunt high above the ground. Following this, it is worth creating the internal structure of the terrarium.

A layer of substrate, special or replaced, is placed on the bottom. As substrates it is possible to use washed sand, peat, sphagnum, pine sawdust or a ready-made substrate based on coconut fiber. It is laid out in a layer of 2 to 5 cm, depending on the size of the terrarium. Owners of small terrariums can use soft filtered paper or plain white paper. toilet paper in several layers. But over time, the paper covering will need to be replaced. Also, do not forget that the substrate should not be completely dry, it is necessary to periodically moisten it.

In addition to creating artificial soil, it is necessary to place shady shelter areas. They act as shelters from lighting during hunting or molting. A shadow can be created by placing several branches with leaves (artificial ones are much more durable) or they can be replaced with sticks and pieces of fabric, so as to create a shadow slightly larger than a spider. Usually several such zones are placed at different levels of the terrarium. To make shelters easier, just put a few pieces of bark in one place, the spider itself will place its “hole” under them. Or there is the opportunity to buy decorative ones, the most impressive among them are those in the shape of a skull.

To hunt, spiders need to form elevations and several levels of habitat. Elevations can be created by stacking stones or using decorative elements. The easiest way to create levels is with a piece of wood. True, in small terrariums this will be quite problematic. In vertical terrariums, they place it against one of the walls, and make a kind of nest on it, drilling a hole (not through) the size of a spider’s abdomen. In a horizontal terrarium, it will be enough to simply place it on the bottom.
When decorating the interior space of the terrarium, you should avoid sharp corners and objects, due to the fact that the chitinous shell of spiders after molting is quite thin, they can easily get hurt.

After the terrarium is decorated, you should also take care of maintaining the humidity in it. Although this can be done manually using a spray bottle, the easiest way is to place several containers of water, you can make them yourself from plastic bottles, and purchase specialized ones. They will also serve as a source of drink for the spider. But it is worth considering the size so that he does not accidentally drown in it.

Temperature and humidity play a big role in life

Tropical spiders love humidity up to 90-95%, and fairly high temperatures. In contrast, deserts, on the contrary, have a high temperature but a small amount of moisture - up to 75%. It is best to control both temperature and humidity using specialized devices. Which themselves spray water and regulate the temperature. But if you save money, you can use a regular thermometer and a simple hydrometer.

Excessive humidity can cause fungal disease in spiders, while low humidity will cause dehydration.

The temperature in the terrarium can additionally be maintained using a thermal mat or thermal cord; they are useful if the room temperature is lower than required. Typically, a comfortable temperature for spiders is in the range of 20 – 28°C. Although spiders can tolerate low temperatures down to 10-15 degrees, they are undesirable, since digestive system The process of food rotting may begin. High temperatures are also undesirable, as spiders can literally cook.

Tarantulas, like tarantulas, hunt in the dark, additional lighting It should not be installed in a terrarium. Indoor lighting will be sufficient to monitor your pet. In large terrariums, a low-voltage lamp of 15-20 watts is sometimes placed, but due to the characteristics of the spiders themselves, they really have no meaning, except to help maintain the temperature.

You should also not place the terrarium in direct sunlight, as this can lead to an increase in the temperature inside.

It is also worth checking the tightness of the lid, as spiders are very inquisitive by nature and can go beyond the terrarium. It is also worth checking for air holes, and it is best to install a small fan. It will help regulate the oxygen level throughout the terrarium and also create a semblance of wind.

Terrarium.

Few spiders can live in a group. Most species are characterized by cannibalism, which requires keeping them alone. Both plastic and glass containers of various convenient shapes are suitable as a terrarium. A prerequisite is a tightly closing lid or doors, since all tarantulas move well on glass. Substrate for bedding: filter paper, gravel, peat (but fungus easily settles on it), sphagnum and lichen, sawdust (preferably coniferous with pieces of bark). The ideal substrate is vermiculite.

All tarantulas can be divided into terrestrial and arboreal ones; for the former, the most convenient is a horizontal terrarium with a removable lid, for the latter, a vertical one with a removable front wall.

Species leading a terrestrial lifestyle usually have a manic tendency to various earthworks. If there is a sufficient layer of substrate, they dig a hole and begin to lead a life invisible to you.

Shelters and holes.

For terrestrial tarantulas, transparent plastic foam shelters are sold abroad and are used for constant observation of the animal. But a regular piece of plastic transparent pipe can also be used, buried in the ground and leaning one side against the glass wall of the terrarium. It must be remembered that if there is large quantity usually ignore the soil spider covers the shelters set out for him. For woody species, it is best to use fragments of tree branches or vertical pieces of coniferous tree bark.

Temperature.

Most spiders are kept at a temperature of +23-28 C. But they can easily withstand a decrease in temperature to +15 C. It is best to have a thermostat with a constant temperature of about +26 - 27 C. The most dangerous decrease in temperature is for heavily fed spiders, since in their stomach putrefactive processes may begin.

Heaters.

It is most convenient to use glass baths with a water heater. This maintains both temperature and humidity. You can use bottom heating using thermal pads, thermal films or thermal cables.

Humidity.

The basis for successfully keeping spiders is properly selected air humidity. When humidity is low, it becomes difficult to shed. Spiders in tropical rain forests simply die when there is a lack of moisture in the air. For tropical rain forest spiders, it is recommended relative humidity 75-90%, and for desert-shrub species - 55-75% (adults can tolerate the absence of moisture for a month). The terrarium should have a bath of water or a container with wet moss; in extreme cases, the litter should be sprayed daily with a hand sprayer.

Excessive humidity, in turn, can lead to the massive development of mold fungi, many types of which are dangerous for arthropods (fungal diseases of the body and respiratory organs).

Lighting.

The lighting lamp should be low voltage, 15-25 watts, no more. Spiders do not see red light, and therefore a red lamp can be recommended to observe their natural behavior (as well as for other nocturnal animals). If the terrarium is decorated with plants, then you should use a fluorescent lamp that provides a full spectrum (fluorescent lamp or biolamp). There are extremely conflicting opinions regarding the benefits of irradiating spiders with ultraviolet light.

Naturalistic type of design.

For aesthetic and decorative purposes it can be imitated natural environment in the terrarium. Easier to complete It is better to box under a tropical rain forest than under a semiarid habitat. For small spiders This design is not recommended; the animal will simply “get lost” in the jumble of bark, stems and leaves. Planted plants will eliminate the problem with food residues in the burrows: it will be processed by the plants. It is better to use artificial plants to decorate desert terrariums because live succulents require much more light than spiders. Only species of Haworthia, Gasteria and small Aloe are fully adaptable. These are just general recommendations. Terrarium design is an excellent field of activity for using your imagination and creative experiments.

A necessary tool.

To move the animal you will need tongs and a net. You will also need a box with a tight-fitting lid to temporarily house the animal while cleaning or changing the design of the terrarium. For food (crickets), two tweezers are desirable, long and short. If necessary, take the spider with your hands following the cephalothorax with a large and index fingers between the second and third pair of legs.

We made sure that your spiders do not need anything and prepared kits for their maintenance. Each kit includes:

• glass spider or plastic faunarium,
• priming– coconut crumbs,
• tweezers to manipulate the spider,
• sprayer to maintain humidity.

You can buy as starter kit for a little spider, so large decorated set for an adult tarantula spider.

Starter set "Minimum" Perfect for a spider until 9-10 molts (about 2 years), after which you can transplant the grown spider into a larger terrarium.

Standard set "Optimum" - this is a minimal spider for an adult. This tarantula terrarium looks compact and neat, and access to the spider is through the front removable door.

Premium Extended Set - this is a spacious decorated spider cage in which your tarantula will feel great, delighting you with its beauty. However, the spider should be planted in a spider bed of this size when it reaches 4-5 cm throughout the body to avoid stress.

If you are looking for a terrarium kit for Scorpio, spider kits will suit you Brachypelma- their conditions of detention are approximately the same ( we're talking about about scorpios Heterometrus)

It is difficult to find an animal that is easier to keep than the tarantula spider. You only need to remember two things: feed and humidity . Having poured a thick layer of soil, it is enough to moisten it 1-2 times a week. Spiders are fed with the same frequency. Those. During busy periods, you only need to think about your pet 1-2 times a week.

Read more about the contents of the type you are interested in in the description of the corresponding kit.

Rather, choose a spider and order a kit for it, and we will give you 10% discount on both spider and cobweb!

P.S. The promotion does not apply to Exo Terra plastic faunariums.

Substrate in a terrarium for tarantulas

When determining the conditions for keeping tarantulas, it should be taken into account that the substrate in the tarantula’s terrarium is not only “bedding” for it, but performs at least two important functions - maintaining general humidity and ensuring the normal course of tarantula molting. In nature, the spider, moving deep into the hole or, conversely, to its surface, tearing out side holes or deepening it, thus regulates the temperature and humidity conditions. In captivity, when conditions are created and regulated artificially, directly by man, this role of the substrate for adult specimens is minimized, but for young juveniles it is extremely significant.

Based on many years of experience in raising young tarantula spiders, it has been noted that in the presence of a large layer of moistened substrate, as a rule, there are no problems with molting, and the possibility of their dehydration (dehydration) is virtually eliminated.


There are different opinions among collectors around the world regarding the composition of the substrate and the materials used as the substrate. However, it is absolutely clear to formulate the requirements that it must necessarily meet: moisture capacity, i.e. the ability to absorb a sufficient amount of water and slowly evaporate it, neutrality (non-aggressive environment) and hygiene. The hygiene of the substrate lies in its being as resistant as possible to rotting and fungal attack, as well as inhibiting the proliferation of mites in it.

Vermiculite certainly meets the requirements. It is widely used in hydroponic culture in growing agricultural and ornamental plants in an intensive way. Vermiculite is chemically neutral, retains moisture well and has antibacterial properties. Its only drawback is that it is a fine fraction, crumbles and for this reason cannot be used to contain actively digging species. Another significant disadvantage can be considered the fact that appearance It is not easy to determine the degree of its humidity.

Another substrate on which tarantula spiders are successfully kept is peat and its various mixtures, and, as the most practical, a mixture with sphagnum moss in various proportions. Such a substrate is also highly hygroscopic, but is much more easily affected by fungus and, being biologically active, requires a significant thickness of backfill in the terrarium, which, given the tendency of most species of tarantulas to dig up soil, makes it less practical for species that do not require a large layer .

Remember that at the slightest manifestation of fungal growth, the appearance of mites or dipterans (especially the predatory humpback fly) in the terrarium, the soil must be immediately replaced, and the terrarium must be sanitized!

However, the most popular substrate common today is the so-called. Coconut substrate, which is finely ground coconut fiber, is widely used by hobbyists around the world. It is easy to use and meets all the requirements for a substrate for keeping tarantulas, but can also be affected by fungus (depending on its quality and processing).

As a last resort, you can use special garden soil as soil, but in conditions of high humidity, required for keeping almost all tropical species, there is a very high risk of mites and fungal growth in it.

It is not recommended to use gravel, aquarium soil, or artificial surfaces as a substrate for tarantulas. The thickness of the soil layer is great importance when keeping actively digging burrowing species (Hysterocrates spp., Haplopelma spp. and some others). For other species, its layer should be sufficient to maintain moisture, i.e. about 3-7 cm depending on the type of substrate (less for vermiculite, more for “earthen” soils).

Remember: under no circumstances should the substrate be allowed to become waterlogged - this can lead to the death of your pet!

Decorative design of the terrarium

Decorating a terrarium is only advisable if it is intended as an element of home interior decoration, and is optional, since decorating the terrarium is unlikely to have any significance for the spiders themselves.

Terrariums can be decorated with bark, driftwood, artificial plants, and live moss. All decoration elements must be securely fixed in the terrarium and placed so that they cannot serve as a refuge for food items. When fixing them, you must remember that it is inadmissible to use compounds containing toxic substances as glue (only specialized adhesives for aquariums are applicable).

Special attention should be paid to the use of living plants in terrariums with tarantulas.
As you know, the vast majority of plants require bright lighting, which is unacceptable for almost all types of tarantulas. In addition, given the active digging activity of many species and the tendency of almost all terrestrial representatives of the family to move the substrate in the terrarium, it is not practical to use live plants in the terrarium. Therefore, their use is possible only in terrariums with arboreal species of tarantulas, but due to the difference necessary conditions It is also impractical for plants and tarantulas. Instead, it is better to use artificial plants.

Under no circumstances should objects and materials with sharp edges that could damage the tarantula be used as decorative elements in the terrarium.

Lighting in a terrarium for tarantulas

All tarantula spiders live in various kinds of burrows and shelters and lead an exclusively twilight-night lifestyle, being active, as a rule, in the absence of lighting. Therefore, there is no need to equip terrariums for tarantulas with additional lighting.

If you decide to decorate a terrarium with a spider using live plants, and special lighting equipment is necessary, use small fluorescent lamps, installing them on top of the terrarium (however, in this case you should not count on the fact that you will see the tarantula often). Never use incandescent lamps for this purpose, as they dry out the air, thereby causing sharp fall humidity in the terrarium, and can also cause burns to your pet (being installed inside the terrarium). In addition, they are very poorly suited in terms of spectrum for living plants.

Some hobbyists equip terrariums with tarantulas with red light lamps, which allows them to observe the active life of spiders at night without disturbing them, since tarantulas do not seem to perceive the red spectrum of light. It should, however, be noted that many spiders adapt to the light over time and do not seek shelter during the daytime, allowing them to be observed almost around the clock.

Temperature of keeping tarantulas

The body temperature of a spider, and therefore the intensity of metabolism and other functions of its body, is directly dependent on temperature environment. Optimal temperature for keeping tarantula spiders ranges from 20-25°C (for tropical forest species) and up to 26-28°C for inhabitants of arid biotopes (group 4), but minor temperature changes in one direction or another do not cause any harm to tarantulas.

In the case of certain types group 2 (for example, Grammostola rosea, Chilean Paraphysa spp. and some others), capable of withstanding significant drops in temperature, a temperature drop of up to 14-15 ° C is acceptable, and for Megaphobema mesomelas from the mountain cloud forests of Costa Rica the temperature is above 23-24 °C can be fatal (observation for natural individuals).

A drop in temperature below 18°C ​​for species of group 3 (except for burrowing Asian tarantulas, which for successful breeding requires a rest period at low temperatures), and especially tarantulas inhabiting biotopes of low-lying humid tropical forests, living in nature in deep burrows, where the temperature is quite stable and is 20-24 ° C (Striffler, B., 2006; Cloudsley-Thompson et al., 1984) depending on the depth of measurement from the surface of the substrate, as well as representatives of the group 4 (inhabiting arid biotopes of Africa) is extremely undesirable. At the same time, decreases of 3-5 ° C and even lower in relation to the required temperatures do not affect tarantulas in any negative way if the spiders are not fed and the impact low temperatures not long lasting.

Observations in captivity show that during summer period When the ambient temperature rises sharply (above 30°C), the tarantula can be seen immersed in containers of water for drinking. This behavior is especially characteristic of burrowing forest tropical tarantulas (Theraphosa spp., Megaphobema spp., Nhandu spp., etc.), for which a significant increase in temperature is also extremely undesirable, as is its decrease.

Therefore, when choosing temperatures for keeping, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of specific species of tarantulas. But for the most part, tarantulas do not require additional heating and are quite content with average room temperature for normal life and development.

Moreover, it has been noted that the practice of “forced” rearing of tarantulas at elevated temperatures with intensive feeding leads to adverse consequences for their further development and reproduction. So, for example, the productivity of giant males and females is much lower than those raised under normal conditions.

On the other hand, the possibility of artificially regulating the temperature of the housing has its advantage, since it allows you to control the growth rate of spiders, which is important when breeding tarantulas due to the limited number of individuals of one species, if there is only a limited number of individuals of a species from one cocoon.

It should be noted that tarantulas bred and raised in captivity are more flexible in relation to the maximum and minimum temperatures of maintenance.

Humidity in a terrarium for tarantulas

In nature, the spider’s body is protected from drying out by its shelter; it also has the opportunity to choose various places for shelter within the natural biotope. In captivity, a person deprives him of this opportunity and is obliged to artificially provide the level of humidity necessary for the tarantula on his own.

As already mentioned, the substrate used for terrariums with tarantulas plays a significant role in maintaining required level humidity, and therefore even for relatively dry species of group 4 should be slightly moistened in one of the corners.

The installed drinking container is also a factor in maintaining humidity due to water evaporation. For species of groups 1 and 3, regular spraying of the terrarium is recommended. The average humidity of keeping tarantulas ranges from 60 to 80%. For representatives of arid African biotopes, a decrease in humidity to 40-50% is allowed, while species such as Theraphosa blondi and a number of others require high humidity - about 90%.

Mikhail Bagaturov