Trumpet scarf (snood): history of origin. Scarf: the history of fashion in a strip of fabric Women's silk scarf its history

28 October 2014

Is a relatively new phenomenon in street fashion. Therefore, it is not surprising that there was confusion on this topic. Now we call this a wide tube scarf, which can be worn on the head. However, initially this word (literally translated as "leash") was used to refer to a completely different accessory - a headdress for hair in the form of a net. In the Middle Ages, ladies hid their long hair (and they did not cut it all their lives) in such a mesh hood. It covered part of the forehead, passed behind the ears and under the back of the head. Wealthy ladies wore snoods richly adorned with pearls. In later times, snoods were also worn outside the home: decency demanded to hide the hair. In Scotland, snoods were called ribbons that were woven into the hair of a girl of marriageable age. This is how the status was visually determined. During the Second World War, snood experienced a rebirth - this headdress emphasized the patriotism of its owner. Nowadays, hair snoods are worn by married Jewish women - following the ancient religious custom of always covering their heads. Well, in fact, snoods in the meaning of a pipe scarf were the first to be worn by skiers and motorcyclists. It is very convenient: you can wrap it around your neck or cover your head, depending on the weather and wind. Otherwise snoods are called "endless scarf" or "endless loop", "turtle neck". Today, snoods confidently walk on fashion catwalks - both in female and male versions. The main advantage of knitted tube scarves is their practicality: they cover the neck well and warm the head, if necessary.

The history of the scarf

A scarf has long ceased to be a purely utilitarian thing. It not only warms up in the cold, but now it is also a bright accessory that can be matched in any season to any wardrobe item. A scarf is capable of both hiding something and becoming a real highlight of the image.

The history of the scarf begins almost two thousand years ago. Archaeological finds from the 1970s indicate that it was first worn by the Chinese military. In the burial of the times of the Chinese emperor Qin Shi Huang, discovered in 1974, among the warriors made of terracotta, one can see neckbands, made so skillfully that even now one can easily distinguish folds on them. The find confirmed that the Chinese warriors tied a piece of material around their necks to protect them from the cold and wind, that is, they used the scarf only for practical reasons. A little later, a gradation of scarves by military rank appeared: the warriors close to the emperor wore silk, simple ones made of cotton. Prior to this discovery, the Romans were considered the inventors of the neckerchief. Roman legionnaires called the neckbands focale, and in this form they were even captured on Trajan's column. Warriors demonstrating the military exploits of Emperor Trajan are engraved on it with a spiral ribbon. Moreover, most of them have scarves tied in a knot around their necks. The predecessor of today's warm scarves also originated in ancient Rome. They were worn by Roman legionaries during campaigns in cold Gaul and Germany.

The whims of kings

In the seventeenth century, utilitarianism was forgotten, and beauty came to the fore. The most exquisite, of course, was considered silk, and scarves from this material were very popular among representatives of high society. For example, the composer Beethoven loved this accessory, preferring dramatic red shades that emphasize his brutal appearance. Napoleon Bonaparte adored silk scarves that were specially brought to him from India, and King Louis XIV of France, seeing bright silk scarves on Croatian soldiers for the first time, fell in love with them at first sight. Silk scarves came to be called kravate. These were expensive scarves made of Venetian or Flemish lace. We do not undertake to assert whether the French "kravat" goes back to the Croats, but this name for a tie has survived in many European languages ​​to this day, so the probability is extremely high. Since lace was imported into France from abroad, it was very expensive. The "Sun King" even organized a special court position: the supplier-cravatier was in charge of purchasing and caring for a variety of silk accessories (Vladyka did not like to deny himself a choice and had hundreds of scarves). This was the period when aesthetics came to the fore. The king's favorites, one after another, competed in who would wear a beautiful scarf in the most original way. The Duchess de La Vallière even went down in history: she chose men's scarves for herself and began to tie them with a bow. This bow-lavalier has survived to this day as a decorative adornment for both women's and men's clothing.

The scarf only seems to be a simple piece of matter, in fact, a lot depends on the way of wearing it. There is always a place for creativity here. So, during the period of hostilities in 1692 between France and England, the steinkerk style arose, which consisted of the following: a scarf was wound around the neck, and the ends tied together in a knot were hidden in the collar of outerwear. The history of the emergence of this style is quite interesting. The French were resting near the village of Steinkerk when word came that the British were advancing. Not having time to tie the tie as expected, one dandy simply tucked it into his buttonhole.

In the Russian open spaces

In our country, scarves appeared during the reign of Peter I at the end of the 17th century and briefly passed the path already known to us. Moreover, the officer's scarf became the first element in distinguishing higher ranks from ordinary soldiers. It was equipped with twisted thread tassels of a silvery or golden color and was made of silk. The accessory was supposed to be worn over the right shoulder, tying the tassels in a knot at the left thigh. By the way, Paul I, who later came to the throne, did not like scarves very much. The autocrat introduced strict discipline in the army. Any liberty in dress was ruled out. An officer's uniform appeared without this accessory at all. Ironically, it was the scarf that caused the death of the emperor: one of the officers strangled him with it. In 1783, a comfortable knitted scarf was invented in Krakow. True, they began to use it everywhere only during the First World War (pilots tied their necks in winter, fleeing the wind and cold). The knitted scarf began to penetrate into everyday men's fashion in the thirties of the XX century, but it was finally fixed in it only in the seventies on the wave of fashion for knitwear.

But in France in the middle of the 19th century, a woolen scarf suddenly turned into a symbol of rebellion. Young revolutionaries began to cover not only their necks, but also the lower part of their faces. At first, the accessories were faded and checkered, and later they began to be sewn from thin and bright colored silk fabrics with patterns.

Seeing in the stole a symbol of rebellion and denial of the regime, they began to wear it much less often in our country. Kashne was immediately chosen by criminal groups and put them on to emphasize their belonging to the criminal world. Thank God, the fashion for scarves was revived at the beginning of the 20th century by the Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni. He just adored them. By the way, in the same era in the Soviet Union, a scarf was considered a sign of bourgeoisness, therefore only women and children decided to wear it. So they wrapped themselves in checkered wool mufflers in cool weather.

Fashion sky

The scarf has rightfully taken the place of a practical and beautiful accessory that can be worn in cold weather, and in summer heat, and for a walk, and on an exit. Here fashion houses got down to business, creating various models of stoles, among which Hermes became the leader. His silk scarves became a cult and went down in fashion history. They were still sewn from silk, and the pattern was striking in its variety. By the way, according to statistics, the most popular is just the Hermes scarf (let's say thanks to the TV series, where you could watch a huge number of different models).

Queen Victoria of England played an important role in increasing demand for this accessory, as the neckerchief became a favorite and permanent element of the royal wardrobe. A little later, thanks to Burberry, checkered fabric came into fashion, and they also began to sew warm scarves from it.

But the scarf did not begin its triumphant ascent to the heights of fashion right away - only in the 21st century did the designers realize that it could be not just a beautiful element, but even correct the whole image. Fortunately, there are a great many models now: they can be winter, demi-season or summer. You should have a few in your wardrobe for any occasion. It can be a shawl, stole, snood, poncho, collar, and even a good old boa. The more options, the more striking images you can create.

The fashion for fabrics has also changed. Delicate silk, of course, has not gone anywhere (just look at the stunningly bright Missoni models), but now linen, cotton, cashmere, corrugation, wool, and a combination of fabrics have become more in demand. The imagination and the decor of the scarves are striking, since all kinds of elements in the form of fringes, pompons, beads, fur, leather and embroidery are also used here. Of course, this mainly concerns women's stoles. The prints also change with each season, adjusting to fashion trends. There are such beautiful models that the entire look is selected for an unusual accessory.

What else makes a scarf such a versatile accessory is the variety of options for tying and wearing it. You can find over twenty ways for women and about ten for men. Shawls can be worn not only around the neck, but also on the hips, wrist, bag handle, or tied around the head, as was fashionable in the sixties.

Ole-ole-ole!

Separately, we will highlight the scarves, which carry the role of a distinctive feature or belonging to a particular community. You don't have to go far for examples. Just remember the fan scarves that fans cheerfully wave at the stadiums. Football fans, regardless of age or social status, definitely take this accessory when going to a match or club meeting, because this is a key element of football paraphernalia.

For the first time, the fan scarf appeared in the sixties in England, where, in fact, this sport originated. They were made from striped woolen fabric, made in the colors of the club. Soon they began to be noticed in the stadiums of Italy. In the USSR, such scarves appeared in the eighties: at first they tried to make them from ordinary cotton fabric, on which a pattern was applied, but the option turned out to be short-lived - they were quickly torn. Therefore, soon the fans began to knit them themselves. The first such long scarves were wrapped around Spartak fans, and soon Zenit fans also got an accessory. Each club has its own rules and design features for a fan scarf. They are kept as a keepsake and collected.

Now anyone has the opportunity not only to choose a scarf for every day, but also to order an exclusive model for any look and not just hide from the cold, but also make a splash at a social event.

Each accessory that we use in everyday life has its own history of creation and popularization, which most people do not even think about. The earliest examples of this garment were discovered in China, from where the history of the scarf known today begins. But in those days, scarves were by no means an accessory, but a necessary part of the uniform of warriors, which protected from the piercing wind and cold during the campaign.

In the service of legionnaires

And modern warm fabric or knitted scarves came to us from Ancient Rome, where they were also used by warriors, legionnaires who went to the Gallic and Germanic lands. Warm scarves helped the Romans to fight the unusual cold of the land there. Who would have thought that such elegant clothes have such a history. Everything has a history, including clothes, be it eleganzza clothes or any other. The scarf, worn by almost all girls, was once used by severe wars.

Scarf in Europe

In the 17th century, the scarf already acquired the status of a fashion accessory in Romania, from where this fashion spread to Croatia and Paris. In France, scarves acquired a special style - they were made of muslin exclusively in white. Such accessories, starched, were wrapped around the neck in several layers, which was fashionable, beautiful and practical. But it was not given to everyone to learn how to wear a scarf “correctly”; for this, several special schools were even created!

Scarf in Russia

Following European fashion trends, at the end of the same century, Peter I introduced scarves as mandatory equipment for officers. Paul I, who came to the throne of the emperor, changed the obligatory location of the scarf on the officer's uniform and now it should be worn on the belt. The innovation took root, but ironically, the emperor was killed, strangled by this most famous accessory.

Revival

For some time, the popularity of the scarf in many countries of the world has significantly decreased, but already in the 20th century, this fashion was resumed by the famous Italian - actor Marcello Mastroiani. He so gracefully and skillfully wrapped this accessory, selected for each outfit separately, that the history of the scarf resumed and is actively developing to this day.

But in the USSR, the scarf has become a kind of symbol of bourgeoisness, frivolity and softness. The scarf was the trademark of the famous Ostap Bender, who became famous for his adventures, machinations and oratory. This accessory in Soviet Russia was worn by writers and other creative people, having their own special fashion and style.

Already in our 21st century, a scarf has become an integral part of almost every wardrobe of both men and women. This accessory is present in many collections of famous couturiers and often appears on the world's catwalks in various ways. The choice of fabric and color of a modern scarf is incredibly wide, and there are dozens of ways to tie it.

A knitted scarf is not just an accessory for the fall-winter season. In his simplicity and a certain provincial character of the image, which was characteristic of him, lie the traditions of fashion of past years and a special feeling of comfort and warmth. For the sake of these two characteristics, knitted scarves are acquired by people of different ages, who adhere to different styles in everyday life. Fortunately for them, modern fashion is no longer so hard on them, and ready-made knitwear or hand-knitted scarves are an essential complement to the current styles that are shown over and over again on the world catwalks.

The history of the knitted scarf

People have been wearing knitted clothes for many centuries and even millennia. For a long time, the knitted scarf had a supporting role among other items of clothing and accessories. Materials such as silk, brocade, jacquard, cashmere have always had an advantage. Thin and weightless scarves embroidered with gold threads, floral patterns, images of outlandish birds, ethnic motifs and other symbols cost a lot of money. Emperors and wealthy people ordered from abroad for their wives, on whom such scarves looked no less luxurious than jewelry with precious stones. Knitted scarves then remained the lot of commoners who could not afford expensive fabrics, and a skein of yarn - quite.

Despite the fact that the history of the scarf began in the days of Ancient China, and people also mastered knitting many years ago, the knitted scarves that we know and love today, and that accompany us every autumn and winter, entered mass fashion not so long ago. ... Until about the middle of the 20th century, people wore scarves and shawls woven from fine cashmere, models of silk, while knitted scarves (handmade) were worn by those who could not afford expensive accessories.

A new era for these accessories began in the seventies of the last century. This happened in both womens and mens fashion. After the bright and distinctive fashion of the sixties, with its clear lines, rigid shapes, laconic cut and the trend towards mini, the era of hippies and casual style came, and with them came the passion for natural materials and knitting. The flourishing of the "football hooligan" subculture in the UK prompted sportswear and equipment manufacturers to produce jersey scarves with team insignia.

For women, the fashion for knitted scarves began on the runway, when Frenchwoman Sonia Rykiel and Italian brand Missoni showed the fashion world how stylish knitwear can be. Women's magazines of those years rarely did without patterns for knitting scarves or sets with a hat and gloves or mittens, and adherents of street fashion wrapped their noses in multi-colored thick long striped scarves with textured patterns, braids, knitted flowers or knots.

Fashion story

The history of knitted scarves in ready-to-wear fashion began around the end of the sixties of the last century. It was the time of the active movement of hippies, who subjugated fashion, trying to bring it back to nature. With the filing of these trendsetters, a wave of popularity began for clothing made from natural materials, with floral motifs, as well as hand-knitted products, among which were scarves.

At the same time, knitting became almost a favorite female hobby. The Italian brand Missoni has launched knitwear collections, allowing knitwear to become a full-fledged inhabitant of the seasonal fashion weeks. In the seventies, when there were many hand-knitted publications on the free market, women knitted their own scarves, creating long, wide, heavy models of fishnet knit with tassels, as well as multi-colored scarves.

By the eighties, the technology of machine knitting had developed sufficiently, which allowed women to save their time by buying ready-made knitted scarves of various styles. In the new millennium, when hippie chic came into fashion, and it became customary to decorate your outfit and the interior of the house in the country style with its cozy village spirit, knitted things were remembered again. And not just about those who have the status of knitwear, but about those that fit the definition of "from the grandmother's chest." Women again began to knit or buy scarves and shawls, which are reminiscent of thirty-year-old models in design, openwork knitting, voluminous textural products, which they happily began to combine with all styles of clothing.

Modern fashion, fortunately, allows knitted scarves to be worn not only with similarly styled details of clothing. They can be worn both in the autumn-winter season, which does not raise questions, and in the spring-summer season, when it is cool, choosing a scarf. from fine yarn. A knitted scarf looks perfect with outerwear, as well as dresses of any length, with jackets and jackets.

Knitted scarf in modern fashion

In modern fashion, designers now and then look back to the seventies, offering models of knitted scarves, as if preserved from those times. On the catwalk and in knitting magazines, you can see a variety of versions, both long and very short, very narrow and rich voluminous scarves that can serve as a coat or jacket. Snood remains one of the most popular among couturiers - a knitted scarf-collar, which is a closed ring. Its laconicism and ease of wearing allow it to be unusually versatile and combined with a lot of outfits in different styles.

Snood is so loved that it is imitated with ordinary scarves, which are tied with a tight ring around the neck several times. You can combine snood with leather jackets, woolen coats, raincoats and even with evening dresses. This style of scarf has found the most fans among young people, while the traditional knitted scarf of medium length and width and a wide heavy stole have more fans among the older generations, whose representatives successfully wear them as part of an elegant, business, feminine or everyday casual -style.

Knitted scarves are a truly versatile wardrobe item, an accessory for men and women that can brighten and personalize the most trivial outfit. It can be worn with a jacket or blazer, preferring smoother models made of fine knitwear, solid color and without decorative elements. A wide scarf will perfectly play the role of a hood or a hat in the cold season. The combination of a short jacket and a voluminous scarf in a calm neutral color (gray, beige, white) looks especially stylish.

A knitted scarf can be combined with contrasting wardrobe items (leather jacket, thin dress made of noble material), and with a related knit. The combination of a scarf and a cardigan or a sweater dress looks original, which seem to be items of the same set, matching the scarf both in color and texture.

Knitted scarf styles

The classic knitted scarf has an average width and length. It does not drag on the ground, it can be tied loosely, leaving the ends on the chest, and it will not create extra volume in the upper body. Such a scarf can be smooth knit, multicolor, striped, monochromatic - its simplicity allows it to have different versions of design and color combinations. It can also be considered the base model from which other options branch off.

The scarf can be very long, going down to the knees and below, or very short. With the return of fashion to grunge and layering, scarves that wrap around the neck and hide the ends have gained popularity. But to get this effect, it is not necessary to wrap a long scarf around your neck several times; you can purchase a topical tube scarf or snood.

Snood - a scarf-collar, which is worn around the neck and, if necessary, wrapped in a "figure eight". But you can wear it without twisting it, choosing a model that you like more in terms of width and volume. In addition to being worn around the neck, the snood can be worn as a hood, putting it on the head. Thus, this scarf becomes versatile without requiring a hat, which is very important in the cold season.

A stole is a very wide scarf that can be both voluminous and thin and graceful. A knitted stole becomes an indispensable item for evening walks, you can carry it with you, and when it gets colder, just throw it over your shoulders, and you don't need a sweater or jacket.

For a long time already, scarves or shawls-arafats, which are tied in such a way that the corner remains in front, covering the neckline, have been in fashion. Previously, cotton scarves or bright silk scarves were tied like this. , but soon a similar method moved towards knitted patterns. Now you can take a small rectangular knitted stole from a thin or medium thickness of yarn, and knit it in the manner of an arafatka.

Scarves, even knitted ones, have not only a warming function - they can remain an exclusively decorative detail and simply decorate an outfit. For example, if you want to stand out, you can wear a dress with a long and thin knitted scarf to accentuate your look. Various decorative elements that are inherent in knitwear are very popular - pom-poms, tassels, fringes. And if earlier they could only be worn up to a certain age, now you can afford to have plenty of fun, experimenting with your style, which, on occasion, can be decorated with a hat and scarf with a funny pattern and large pom-poms, just like in childhood.

A scarf is an element of clothing, usually made from a rather long piece of fabric, for different peoples the use in clothing had different purposes (religion). Various materials are used for the manufacture of scarves, it can be cotton or wool, silk is also used. As an element of clothing, the scarf began to be used in antiquity, it is believed that the scarf appeared in ancient China. During excavations in China, many clay warriors were found, each wearing a scarf. Scarves were a functional piece of clothing and were used to protect against cold and wind. There are many types of this important wardrobe item.

The word “scarf” itself is of German origin; it means “military armband, belt”. In Russia, an element of a military uniform was called a scarf, it represented a belt made of silver, it had three checkered, silk gaps. It was worn by generals and officers in all sets of uniforms (marching, ceremonial). During the reign of Peter the Great, a scarf was worn over the shoulder, it showed the rank of a military man. Later, scarves began to be decorated with tassels on the left, under Alexander II they were only at the commanders of units and generals, after, they were completely canceled.

In cold countries, warm knitted, woolen scarves are used, they help keep warm and protect from the cold. Scarves are usually worn in combination with a headdress. A scarf can not always serve as a means of protection from cold weather, in many countries it was used to protect against wind and dust, it was possible to tie a scarf on the head, while protecting a person from dust and wind, while keeping the hair clean. Over time, such a scarf has become an element of modern clothing. There is another type of scarf - the skate scarf. Scarf-skate combines the functions of a regular scarf and the functions of a stand-up collar. The main difference from a regular scarf is that a skate scarf has a wider middle part, and there is also a cross-section, its edges are connected with a zipper or uses a different type of connection. A zip or zipper allows you to close the collar of a skate scarf. The scarf can be worn in different ways, there are many ways to tie a scarf around the neck, and different types of knots are used.

Today there are many varieties of scarves. You can use the online store of scarves . There are various fashion scarves for your choice. The scarf can become one of the most striking elements of the appearance, it all depends on its color, shape, performance, but at the same time the scarf should be combined with the rest of the wardrobe.



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