A great journey through the North Caucasus. September. Return trip

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We have been planning to do an interview with the head of the Kulinsky district for a long time. It so happened that the heads of the districts where Laks predominantly live turned out to be the most closed. However, everything changes, and fate brought us together with the head of the Kulinsky district, Said Suleymanov. We met with him and he answered our questions.

Zaur Gaziev

— How does the Kulinsky district differ from other regions of Dagestan? How would you identify the people living in your area? — The high-mountainous Kulinsky region is one of the most beautiful corners of mountainous Dagestan. More than 70% of its territory is located at an altitude of over 2000 meters above sea level. The area is unique in its location, relief, contrast of geographical landscapes, and natural beauty. Majestic mountains with snowy peaks , bizarre folded mountain ranges where Dagestan aurochs and mountain eagles live, deep canyons and valleys, many rivers and rivulets, alpine and subalpine meadows where hundreds of flocks of sheep and herds of cattle graze - all these are natural monuments that delight residents and guests of the area. By nature, our people are hospitable, hardworking, and most importantly, very friendly. Many poets and writers of Dagestan have written more than once in their poems, essays and poems about amazing nature and the beauty of our mountains, oh wonderful people

, workers of fields and farms. The Kulinsky district is famous for its civil and Patriotic Wars , heroes of socialist labor and holders of the Orders of “Lenin”, “Glory”, “Badge of Honor” and many state awards

, laureates of honorary titles. The pride of the district are workers of science, culture, education, sports, poets and writers, musicians and composers, hundreds of scientists and honored workers of various specialties.

- You are right, I really never tire of admiring the places where I come from. After all, each village in the region is unique both in its natural architectural structure and in the variety of professional crafts. For example, Kuli is famous for its livestock breeders, breeding, and masters of sheepskin coats and felt boots. Kani, Tsushchar, Khosrekh - beekeepers, field farmers, poets, writers, composers, scientists. Sumbatl - railway workers! Tsovkra-1 - tightrope walkers and acrobats. Vachi, Tsyisha - masters of stone and ivory products, jewelers and cloth weavers. Kaya - hat makers and skilled traders. Hayhi and Hymie are tinkers. Vihli - masters of felt and sheepskin coats. Sukiyah is considered a village of shoemakers and tailors. The famous folk ensemble "Vikhlinka" from the village. Vikhli has been delighting not only the residents of the region and the republic with his art for many years, but also takes part in all-Russian folklore festivals. The village of Tsovkra is the birthplace of twice Hero of the Soviet Union Ametkhan Sultan, the village of Kaya is the birthplace of Hero of the Soviet Union Tsakhkhai Makaev, the village of Kuli is the birthplace of Hero of Russia Khalid Murachuev. Our people are nice, hardworking people, I am proud of them.

— How long ago were you elected, how many years have you been leading the Kulinsky district? What is your education?

— I have been leading the Kulinsky district for eight years. Elected head municipal district in February 2005, again in March 2009. Education - higher pedagogical and higher economic, management of organizations. He graduated from the Faculty of History of the DSPI and the Faculty of Management of the Moscow State University.

- Let's go back in time a little. What were your very first steps as the head of the district, how did you begin your activities in this position?

— The very first step in the position of head of the district is to solve the problem of creating a team of like-minded people who are able to solve individually and collectively the most complex issues in socio-economic and cultural development district, preserve and continue the best traditions of our people. It was not an easy job, since there are always not enough professionals and people responsible for the job.

— What problems and questions do residents of your area most often come to you with? And how solvable are these problems?

— The main problems and issues addressed by residents of the area are social and everyday problems. Of course, these are also employment issues. The district leadership is taking all measures to satisfy the requests of district residents. Most of these problems are basically solvable, except for those general ones that are solved only at the regional and federal levels. And here I would like to note that sometimes just listening to a person is also very important. The area is small, about 11 thousand people live here.

— Which of the problems facing your district would you identify as a priority, and how solvable is it?

— One of the difficult problems for us to solve remains the issue of gasification of the region. We have ready-made design and estimate documentation. But, as you yourself understand, this is a lot of money; such problems cannot be solved by the district alone. Another one is the repair and construction of roads of both republican and regional significance. In the area, work is underway on asphalt paving (major repairs) of a 3 km long section of the republican highway in the village. Coolie, worth 15 million rubles. Construction of a highway connecting the regional center with the villages of Tsovkra-2 and Tsushchar is underway, the bridge across the river near the village has been repaired. Sumbatl on the Wachi - Kuli highway.

The construction of water pipelines in the settlements of Khosrekh, Kuli, Vachi, Kaya, Vikhli, Kani and Haykhi also remains problematic. Some work is being done to include this issue in targeted investment programs and plans for the socio-economic development of the region. Funds are being sought to implement them.

— How many schools are in your area, how many graduates of this year entered universities in the country and the republic?

— Today there are 26 educational institutions in the Kulinsky municipal district. Of these, 15 are educational institutions: 10 secondary, 3 basic and 2 primary schools, 6 institutions additional education and 5 preschool educational institutions. At 15 educational institutions 1226 students are studying. More than three hundred teachers are engaged in teaching and training in these schools. More than 700 students study in additional education institutions. There are 192 students in preschool educational institutions in the district. This year, construction of new standard buildings for schools in the village is underway. Vachi and s. Vihli. This year, 5 million rubles have been allocated from the district budget for the current repairs of educational institutions. Some educational institutions, 1-Tsovkrinskaya secondary school, Vikhlinskaya secondary school, Khosrekhskaya secondary school, Vachinskaya secondary school and Sukiyakhskaya NS school are in disrepair and need major repairs. Some additional education institutions do not have their own premises, for example, the Khosrekh Music School, the Vikhlin School of Arts and the district House of Children's Creativity.

— I asked you this question because now the biggest risk group is precisely young people, than better quality education, the less likely it is that a young person will become the target of extremist propaganda.

— I understand why you ask, we also read your weekly and other publications in the region, and we watch RGVK. The situation in the republic is clear to me. The problem of the quality of education is a state issue, and it is under our control. Last academic year, 192 graduates took the final certification in the form of the Unified State Exam; 21 graduates received gold and silver medals “For special achievements in learning.” Including 12 gold and 9 silver. We really value young people who strive for knowledge. Thus, in the administration of the municipal district, graduates who received medals from the district were honored with the presentation of valuable awards. All graduates of the 2011-2012 academic year received certificates of secondary education and entered various universities and colleges in the Republic of Dagestan and the Russian Federation.

— I would like to approach the problems of working people. What branches of agriculture are developed in the Kulinsky district, how profitable? Agriculture in your conditions?

— The region has a developed livestock industry with transhumance sheep breeding. Agricultural production cooperatives have been preserved in all settlements. In the region, the number of sheep and cattle is increasing from year to year, and livestock productivity indicators are increasing. The number of livestock breeders and the number of individual entrepreneurs involved in breeding sheep and cattle are increasing. But, by and large, this is not the kind of agriculture that solves the food problem around the world today. Yes, our products are environmentally friendly, but their efficiency is extremely low. We need new breeds of small cattle, we need more productive seeds. So far, unfortunately, our agriculture is unprofitable. The state provides all possible assistance and supports sheep and dairy farming. Potato growing also brings great benefits. This year we have had good harvests.

— What development programs are working in the Kulinsky district? Federal, republican, regional?

— Currently, a targeted investment program is being implemented in the Kulinsky district, which provides for the construction of social infrastructure facilities. In particular, at the expense of the local budget, the construction of a sports hall in the village is being completed. Kaya with an area of ​​540 m², the cost of the object is 29.1 million rubles, the amount of financing for 2012 is 7 million rubles. A school is being built in the regional center, village. Vachi, worth 113.54 million rubles, the amount of financing in 2012 amounted to 13 million rubles. At the expense of the republican and local budgets, the MFC building has already been built at a cost of 9 million rubles. The FAP building has been completed and put into operation. Khaikhi cost 2.589 million rubles, it was built at the expense of the local budget. Work is underway on the construction of a group water pipeline “Tsyisha - Vachi - Kaya” worth 33.8 million rubles with the use of 13 million rubles in 2012 at the expense of the republican budget. It was also planned to reconstruct the regional stadium in the village. Vachi, the volume of construction is 12.682 million rubles, however, due to insufficient funds in the republican financing, it has not yet opened, although it was supposed to begin work in 2012. I understand that these are insignificant numbers for you, but behind them are concrete deeds and benefits that will at least make the lives of our people a little easier. We are very grateful to the republican authorities for this. We ourselves, as I said about this a little earlier, simply cannot handle these projects.

— What social and cultural facilities were handed over to Lately, and which ones are already on the way? How are you doing with gasification, construction of roads, education and healthcare facilities?

- Currently finishing major renovation water pipes in the villages of Kuli, Khosrekh, Kaya, Vikhli at the expense of local budgets. For our villages, where for centuries the problem of water supply has been one of the most difficult, this is a huge deal. Many of our villages even use rainwater! Behind last years Since 2008, in the Kulinsky municipal district, paramedic and obstetric centers have been built and put into operation in the villages of Khaimi, Sukiyakh, Tsyisha, Kani, Khaikhi, Tsushchar, Kaya. This means that someone’s life will be saved, someone will be helped to improve their health, someone will receive timely help.

Another important topic is roads and bridges. More recently, two bridges were built and put into operation in the villages of Kuli and Khaikhi. A gym was built in the village. Vihli. Another project that we are proud of is the construction of three 2-story 8-apartment buildings, as well as the building of a fire station with 28 jobs in the village of Vachi. One 2-story, 8-apartment building was built in the village of Kaya. I also cannot help but say that the sports hall in the village of Kuli, the building of the Kayalinskaya secondary school and a hotel in the village have been overhauled and put into operation. Wachi. In October 2012, the building of a multifunctional center (MFC) in the village was put into operation. Wachi.

— For your small area, this is a serious amount of work! We are very glad that you did this for people.

“But we don’t stop there; construction of a water pipeline is underway in the villages of Vachi and Kaya; sports complex in the village. Kaya; school buildings for 200 student places in the village. Wachi; highway“Sumbatl - Tsovkra-2”, school buildings for 300 students in the village. Vihli.

— The Kulinsky district is famous for its tightrope walkers and artisans, how do you support this folk art?

— The administration of the Kulinsky municipal district strongly supports folk art and crafts. Folklore festivals, shows and competitions are held annually in the area. The region is proud of its famous tightrope walkers from the village of Tsovkra, famous not only in Dagestan, but also beyond its borders. There is a rope walking school in the village.

This year, for the third time, a republican festival of tightrope walkers was held in the village of Tsovkra, named after the famous people's artists of Russia R. Abakarov and Y. Gadzhikurbanov. And every year in the village of Khaikhi, festivals of Dagestan song and folklore, famous throughout the republic, are held; original and famous performers national and pop songs of the peoples of Dagestan. These events become events in cultural life not only the region, but also the republic.

— How is your relationship with the republican ministries and departments and with the leadership of the republic?

— To be honest, this question leaves me somewhat confused. Our relationships are regulated by law. But we are all human, and personal relationships, of course, are always important. I can say that our region is treated with sympathy and understanding. And we ourselves are not asking Furthermore what we really need. Of course, you always want to get a lot, but we understand that the possibilities of the republican budget are not endless. But there is one more aspect of this issue: in order to enter some kind of federal or republican program, you need to be able to correctly formulate your proposals; as it turns out, everyone needs to learn this. Returning to the second part of your question, I would like to note that the President of our republic, Magomedsalam Magomedov, has always been attentive to the issues that I raised with the leadership of the republic. And we are grateful to him for his help and understanding of the problems of our people.

— Have manifestations of extremism and religious intolerance been noted in your area?

— Fortunately, our area is far from the harmful actions and influences of religious and extremist groups. We regularly work with young people, explaining to the younger generation the consequences of the ideas preached by the advocates of “pure Islam.” These issues are under constant attention and supervision of the heads rural settlements, the district administration and the district public. We understand that prevention here is much more effective than combating ideas that begin to take root in our heads.

— Is the population of your area increasing or decreasing from year to year? How are the birth rates in your area?

“Unfortunately, there is a decrease in the population of the region. But it is not related to fertility. Fertility is within normal limits. There is a natural increase in population in the area, but some young people are in search of better life leaves the area. First of all, the lack of jobs, socio-cultural and living conditions affects it (poorly developed road and transport infrastructure, problems with gasification and water supply). These and other issues are under the constant attention of the district leadership and local administrations, but young people want to get some new opportunities; it is wrong to keep them in the district.

— What frustrates you most and what pleases you most about your work?

- The same thing that upsets everyone else normal person. It's frustrating when you can't help people. It’s upsetting when people you trusted suddenly turn out to be completely different... It’s upsetting when you see that a person is capable of more, but his life is not going anywhere where he could benefit himself, the people, the republic. It's frustrating when friends you've known for years stop being friends when you have to say it straight to your face.

What makes you happy? It's a joy to be able to help people. When you see children grow up and become adults. It’s nice when old people live long and don’t lose their good spirits and spend time with their grandchildren. It makes me happy when good deeds bear fruit. I am glad to see people who, in spite of everything, live and work at an altitude of 2000 kilometers above sea level. And these are good people! There are no such things anywhere else!

There is no exact date for the formation of the village and it is impossible to determine. However, it can be said that s. Tsovkra-1 is more than a thousand years old.

The village existed back in the Christian era. This is evidenced by the fact that even today the remains of the cemetery “Chapur x1attallu” and the name “Burch1annil rat1” have been preserved, i.e. pig gorge.

The Muslim cemetery arose after the adoption of Islam, i.e. after 8-10 centuries. If we take even these dates as a basis, then c. Tsovkra-1 is more than a thousand years old. The villagers were fire worshipers. Some customs have survived to this day “Intnil khyu”, etc.

The name of the village of Tsovkra - Ts1uk1ul has a double explanation: firstly, “Ts1u” - “K1ul” - those who know fire, and secondly, “Ts1u” - “Kkul” - a new settlement. Around the current location of the village, the outlines of various settlements have been preserved. These are Eyabak1u, Tsunkra, Ttukhavalu, Karkaala, Okruts1 and others. Perhaps these settlements moved to one place and a new village called Tsovkra arose.

In the book “History of Laks” by R. Marshaev and B. Buttaev it is written that once in ancient times in the center of the village there was a large fire burning, formed after a lightning strike, and after that they began to be called “Ts1u-k1ulmiy” by those who knew fire. Tsovkra has other names:
1.Hun Ts1uvk1ul – big Tsovkra
2.Paglaman Ts1uvk1ul – village of rope walkers
3.Kullul Ts1uvk1ul – fescue Tsovkra.
After 1860, when the Kazikumukh district was divided into three naibstvos, in the Ashtikula naibstvo there were two villages called Tsovkra-first, small Tsovkra-second, which has survived to this day.

Economic and political development

Indeed, before the outbreak of the 1st World War, Tsovkra-1 began to correspond to the name Bolshaya Tsovkra.

According to the 1913 census, there were 343 households and 1,341 residents. After establishing Soviet power The 1-Tsovkri village council also included the population of six villages located around Tsovkr-1. These are: Byarnikhkh, Kichurlukhkh, Tukat, Olllaurtti, Chakali, Khyallukh-mashi.

Together with them, in the 1st Tsovkrinsky village council there were 563 farms and 1,794 residents. However, there was no direct subordination and each village developed independently.
The residents of these villages were friends with each other, traded, helped each other in difficult times, etc.

The main occupation of the residents was livestock farming, farming and migrant work. Earth, i.e. There was not enough arable land and the residents were forced to engage in otkhodniki.
They sown mainly barley, naked barley, peas, potatoes, and rye.

However, the harvest from our own fields was enough for 1-2 months. Therefore, in order to provide bread for the remaining period, we went to Tabasaran, Kaitag, Majalis for grain. They made money as best they could.

The Tsovkrin residents were tinkers and masons, gold and silversmiths, engaged in trade, and performed seasonal work to provide their families with bread. Many died there from malaria, fever and other diseases.

For sale, women from Tsovkra-1 wove special homemade cloth - chukhuri, buirda. There was a demand for them both in Derbent and Nukha.

One of the sources of income was tightrope walking - a dangerous and risky occupation for Tsovkrin residents. Rope walkers staged a spectacle in various villages and cities not only in Dagestan, but also in Azerbaijan, Georgia, Armenia, Central Asia, reached the borders of Afghanistan and China.

Rope walking

The fame of the Tsovkrin rope walkers quickly spread throughout Dagestan and Azerbaijan. They began to be invited to weddings, various celebrations and holidays.

Famous tightrope walkers were O'malakh1a, Gupaev Ramazan, Kurbitaev Alkhas, Mallaev Shapi, as well as women Kuchieva Aishat and Khizrieva Bat1i.

The art of tightrope walking reached its true peak under Soviet rule. The group “4 from Tsovkra” began working at the state circus in 1935.

Under the leadership of People's Artists of the RSFSR Yaragi Gadzhikurbanov and Rabadan Abakarov, the Tsovkrinsky tightrope walkers toured many countries in Europe and Asia. Two artists were awarded the title of People's Artists of the RSFSR, nine artists became People's Artists Dagestan, six artists - Honored Artists of Dagestan.

The average person now perceives tightrope walking as a circus art. Some 100 years ago, tightrope walking in Tsovkra was almost the only way movement. There are many legends about how tightrope walking originated. One of the most famous - young people tested each other’s courage and walked on a tightrope over a cliff. The village residents themselves admit that tightrope walking is a common way of making money.

There are approximately 10 students in the Tsovkrin rope walking school. Anyone can come here. Art is popular among both children and teenagers.

They say that you can learn to walk on a tightrope in a few days, and you can learn the art almost until you are old. On average, each experienced tightrope walker masters almost 30 numbers, both complex and simple.

Since ancient times, in the village of Tsovkra there have been unique family schools of rope walkers. Children were taught from approximately 7-10 years old. Unfortunately, continuity is being lost; in the village of 400 households today there are no more than 80. In April 2012, the President of Dagestan presented his prize in the field of culture to the Tsovkrin rope walkers, and the residents began to hope that the art of rope walking would flourish for many years to come.

Tragic beginning

In 1917, the Great October Socialist Revolution took place and the formation of power began. For residents of the village. Tsovkra-1 it began tragically. In 1918, in the city of Bukhara, Uzbekistan, 20 artisans from the village were executed. Tsovkra-1, who fought for the establishment of Soviet power in Uzbekistan in the detachment of Fayzulla Khojaev.

“The emir attacked the Dagestanis who spoke out with arms in their hands for the freedom of fraternal Uzbek people. On this day, 20 artisans from the village were executed. Tsovkra-1". This is what it says in the doctor's article. historical sciences Adelgerey Gadzhieva “Century-long friendship of the peoples of Dagestan and Central Asia” 12/8/1974 People from Tsovkra also fought for the establishment of Soviet power in Dagestan.

In 1919, more than 20 Tsovkrinites fought in G. Saidov’s detachment, four of them died - Gamzaev Sansadin, Aliev Ramazan, Butaev Kurban and Gasanov Magama. The exploits of M. Hasanov are written in the book “Guerillas of the Mountains” by Ibragimkhalil Kurbanaliev.

The civil war ended during the reconstruction period National economy and the process of collectivization began everywhere.
In 1931, a collective farm was formed in the village. Tsovkra-1, but it lasted only one year and collapsed.

The collective farm was re-established in 1935, they united lands, livestock, horses and began to live in a new way. There were periods when the collective farm had 10,000 heads of sheep, 1,000 heads of cattle, 200 horses and others.

Chairman of the collective farm in different time worked:
1. Israpilov Kurban
2. Ramazanov Razak
3. G-Kurbanov Shagabudin
4. Abidov Magomed
5. Gandaev Gadzhimakhmud
6. Ramazanov Ilyas
7.Magomedov Daud
8. Gasanov Kamil
9.Khanov K-Magomed
10. Kurbanov Alil
11. Mavraev Pazil
12. Majidov Khairutin
13.Bakriev Ibragim
14. Zagidanov Hamid
15.Santuev Magomed
16. Omariwe Gasan
17.Santuev Gasan
18. Zakaryaev Magomed
19. Rizvan Gadzhiev.

Participation in the Great Patriotic War

198 people took part in the Second World War. 94 soldiers died on the fronts of the Second World War, 11 mothers lost two sons each, 28 people returned disabled and crippled, 16 people returned with military orders, 11 people had an officer rank and held command positions.

More than 30 men and women worked on the defenses. 3 women died there. Village residents helped the front with whatever they could: warm clothes, food, raw materials, precious things and others. There is a known case when 21 kg of silver was collected in one day.

To provide themselves with their own bread, more than 30 hectares of virgin land were plowed. A particular tragedy for the residents of Tsovkrin was the death of 72 children in 1942-43 as a result of the measles epidemic. Many fathers, returning from the war, did not find their children at home.

The son of people from the village of Tsovkra - I Akhmet - Khan Sultan became twice Hero of the Soviet Union.

His name stands next to the names of famous air aces. During the war years he made 603 combat missions. 30 fascist aircraft were destroyed personally, 19 in a group. He was awarded 13 orders and many medals, including 3 Orders of Lenin, 3 Orders of the Red Banner of Battle.

Honored Test Pilot of the USSR, Laureate of the USSR State Prize. Tragically died on February 2, 1970 while testing a new aircraft.

An avenue in Makhachkala, where a bust of the hero was installed, is named after him. In the native village of Tsovkra – I, a monument was erected, SPK village. Tsovkra-I bears the name of the hero; a museum was opened for him at school No. 8 in Kaspiysk.

After the establishment of Soviet power and until today, all local power was exercised through the Soviets, no matter how they were called local, rural, and today the administration.

At different times, the following worked as Council chairmen and heads:
1.Akhmedov Rashid
2. Guseinov Khanbutta
3. Gandaev Gadzhimakhmud
4. Abidov Gadzhiomar
5. Abdullaev Magomed
6. Omariev Magomed
7.Medzhidov Magomedramazan
8. Bagome Magomed
9. Omariev Nurislam
10.Shamkhalov Myamma
11.Minkailova Gurun
12.Shamilov Samad
13. Osmanov Aslan
14.Magomedov Gadzhi
15. Isaev Nukh
16. Bakrieva Sofia
17.Santuev Gasan
18.Osmanov Pasha
19. Kusiev Shahban
20.Medzhidov Ilyas

Frame blacksmiths
The primary school in the village of Tsovkra – I was opened in 1920. In 1935 it was transformed into a junior high school, and in 1958 into an eight-year school. Since 1966, the school has become a secondary school.

The first teachers and organizers of the school in 1920 were Magoma Hasanov and Magomed Medzhidov. In 1940, the school was located in private or adapted premises. In 1940, construction of a new standard building was completed. At different times, the heads of the school were:
1. Saidov Saipu - Kaya
2. Osmanov Osman – Kukni
3.Ataev Magomeda – Khanar
4.Gyidatli from Lak region
5. Isaev Gadzhimurad – Tsovkra – I
6.Medzhidov Magomed – Tsovkra – I
7.Karanov Abdul – Byarnikh
8.Guseinov Mulin – Chukna
9. Jalilov Hasan – Kuli
10. Minkailov Rasul – Tsovkra – I
11.Shamkhalov Ramazan - Kaya
12. Bakriev N – Magomed – Tsovkra – I
13.Zakaryaev Gazali – Tsovkra – I
14. Seifullaev Magomed – Tsovkra – I
15.K – Aliyev G – Huseyn – Tsovkra – I
16.Saimaeva Patimat – Tsovkra – I
17. Bakriev Bakri – Tsovkra – I
18. Medzhidov Ilyas – Tsovkra – I
19.Salamova Khadizhat – Tsovkra – I

Of those who graduated from school, more than 200 students received higher education. Many of them became scientists, candidates of science, academicians received Honored Titles, and were awarded orders and medals.
Here are some of them:
1.Bakrie Bakri M. Honored teacher of the RSFSR and DASSR.
2. Ramazanov Tazhib R. Honored teacher of the DASSR.
3.Magomedov Khalid G. Honored Doctor of the DASSR.
4. Mavraev Pazil D. Honored Agronomist of the DASSR.
5.Santuev Magomed M. Honored Veterinarian of the DASSR
6.Santuev Hasan Honored Veterinarian of the DASSR
7. Medzhidov Ilyas R. Honored teacher of the Republic of Dagestan.
8. Mugutinov Nazhmutin M. Honored teacher of the Republic of Dagestan.

Scientists:
1.Medzhidov Yusup Varisovich - the first candidate of sciences from the village. Tsovkra – I
2. Khalilov Abdurakhman I. – academician, doctor of sciences.
3. Ramazanov Magomed Shch. – academician, doctor of sciences.
4. Yunusov Kurban M. – Doctor of Science.
5. Seifullaev Badrutin M. – Candidate of Sciences.
6. Nikaev M – Ramazan A. – candidate of sciences.
7. Sadykov Nurulla – candidate of sciences.
8.G – Khanov M – Bag – Doctor of Sciences.
9. Yunusova Maryam – candidate of sciences.
10. Omarov Akhmedkhan and Omargadzhi – candidates of sciences.
11. Ramazanov Magomed – candidate of sciences.
12. Elena Z. Murtaeva – candidate of sciences.

Family and family life

Families are big and small. Large ones where several generations live, children, grandchildren, great-grandchildren living in the place.

The heads of such a family are the father and mother. Individual couples have their own rooms. The nags from the pantries are kept by the mother-in-law, who tries to save as much as possible in large families, sometimes there are 20-30 people.

Marriage and Wedding

Marriages were mainly carried out between Tsovkrin residents. Marriage between relatives was preferred, but not required. Marriage with other villages rarely occurred; there is a saying:

Zhalin vilva tukhumraya bova, dos arhssanan bula.

There are levirate and sarorate forms of marriage. Levirate involves marrying his brother's widow. Sarorat is when a widower marries the sister of his capable wife. There was also a personal betrothal - this is if two related families agreed to marry their children. They say that in ancient times a rope was placed on the gadekan, and a large fire was lit under it. The girls climbed the rope, the one who crossed the rope got married, and the one who fell burned.

Today's Tsovkra

About 80 farms remain from the once large village (400 households). 50 households have one person living each, more than 10 households roam to Makhachkala and back.

The total population is 460 people, 80 children study at school, more than 200 people are pensioners, and the process of aging of residents continues. After 1991, the situation of the village residents worsened even more. Not enough work. Young people go to the cities and do not return to the villages.

The collective farm has become economically weak, the number of sheep has decreased, few cows have been sown, and the yield per hectare is very low.

On the other hand, personal subsidiary plots have strengthened. The number of cattle and small cattle in them has increased, but not everyone is able to run such a farm. The population is provided with drinking water.

The roads are better than before but require constant repairs.

The television works but is of poor quality. No mobile communications There is a meeting room and 2-3 stalls. There is a market on Friday. There is no bathhouse, a lot of collapsed houses. There are no new buildings.

Group: recruitment is underway

Duration: 14 days

Price: 109,000 rub.

When developing this trip, we tried to harmoniously combine all the impressions that the Caucasus can give to a traveler. We chose the brightest places and people and created a very intensive program. Returning from this trip, you can rightfully say: “I saw the Caucasus!” In all its diversity!
Seven republics, almost 2000 km. path, the maximum lifting height is more than 3700 meters above sea level. And most importantly, on this journey you will not be able to be just an outside observer: there will be forays into the mountains, craft master classes, communication with musicians, scientists and ordinary village people.

ROUTE:

September 1.

Walk around Old Gagra

Decembrist writer Alexander Bestuzhev-Marlinsky, who served in the 5th Black Sea battalion in the Gagra fortress, wrote in June 1836: “I was transferred to the terrible climate of Abkhazia. There is a depression between huge mountains on the Black Sea coast, in Abkhazia. The wind doesn't fly there; the heat there from the hot rocks is unbearable, and, to top off the pleasures, the stream dries up and turns into a stinking puddle.”

No one then could imagine how this place could be transformed. The resort here was founded at the beginning of the 20th century by the Prince of Oldenburg, who set out to turn Gagra into a “Russian Monte Carlo”. In 1911, the first tourists from Germany arrived here, and a year later Emperor Nicholas II himself visited Gagra.

Climbing to Anakopia

In the 5th century, the Abazgs (one of the nationalities that later made up the Abkhaz nation) built a fortress on the top of the mountain. Two centuries later, it played a decisive role in the history of not only the region, but also the entire continent: a 40,000-strong Arab army tried to enter Byzantium from the rear, which was the main frontier on the Arabs’ route to Europe. At night, after the first unsuccessful assault on the fortress, the entire army was struck by a stomach epidemic. The Arab army was defeated, and the fall of Byzantium was postponed for many centuries. After the creation of the Abkhazian kingdom, Anakopia became the capital.

There is still something to see in the fortress - well-preserved walls and towers, a Christian temple at the very top and magnificent views of the coast.

New Athos Cave

In 1961, a 16-year-old boy named Givi found the entrance to a huge cave, which was later explored by speleologists. At a depth of 135 m, the first hall was discovered, and after a detailed study, the approximate volume of the cave was established - almost 1 million cubic meters! 15 years after its discovery, the cave became a famous landmark throughout the Soviet Union, and Givi became the director of this tourist site.

Here you can see huge halls, stalactites and stalagmites, cave lakes and even a waterfall! Inside the cave you feel the true scale of nature. To get inside you need to take a specially built metro.

New Athos Monastery

In 1874, Russian monks from Greece arrived in the valley of the Psyrtskha River and a year later they founded a monastery at the foot of Mount Athos. Its construction ended after 20 years; The volume of work still seems incredible today. The landscape was significantly changed - part of the mountain was cut off and more than 1000 tons of soil and rock. Some of the materials were delivered by sea from distant countries - for example, tiles were brought from Marseille, and the clock for the main tower of the monastery was donated by Emperor Alexander III.
By the beginning of the twentieth century, New Athos had become the largest religious center on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, and it remains so to this day.

Park and railroad station Psyrtskha

At the beginning of the 20th century, through the efforts of New Athos monks, the swampy valley of the Psyrtskha River was turned into a park with canals and a system of ponds in which mirror carps were bred. The monks planted gardens on the mountain slopes: apples, tangerines and olives were grown here.
In 1942, during a difficult time war time, a railway was built connecting the Russian coast with Sukhumi. She was needed Soviet troops to hold back the advance German troops in Transcaucasia. Then, after the war, the road was improved, station buildings were built - excellent examples of Stalinist architecture - the best in the USSR. Psyrtskha station is the most beautiful of them.

Sukhum

The capital of Abkhazia is located in the very center of the country. The city sits comfortably in a spacious bay and is reliably protected by mountain ranges.
During the 1992-1993 war, Sukhum suffered greatly and has still not fully recovered from its consequences: even today you can find burnt buildings and bullet marks on the walls. However, it still retains the charm of an old port town. Its architectural appearance began to take shape in late XIX centuries, when large industrialists and merchants built their houses, villas and hotels here - and all in different styles! Cozy streets with old trees go down to the heart of the city - the sea promenade. A favorite pastime of guests and townspeople here is sipping coffee in open coffee shops.

September 2. Trekking in Abkhaz forests and gorges

Shakuran waterfall

One of the most impressive natural places Abkhazia. This is a 60 meter high waterfall. It has quite a changeable character: sometimes people come and don't see any water at all, and sometimes it becomes a roaring madness! Moreover, the gorge itself on the approach to the waterfall is so beautiful that people never leave disappointed.

Cold River Gorge

Abkhazia has a special type of landscape... A cold, narrow and deep gorge, overgrown with mosses and magical boxwood-hornbeam groves. Entering such a gorge, the traveler finds himself in a fairy tale.
The Cold River Gorge is one of the best such places!

The Azantian dolmen is the tallest in the Caucasus

No one knows exactly who and why erected dolmens - ancient buildings made of huge stone slabs. There are such people in Europe, the Caucasus, and even Africa and Korea. The most famous “relative” of dolmens is Stonehenge in England. Exist different versions about the purpose of dolmens, according to some - they are funeral structures, according to others - places endowed with special powers for the performance of certain rituals and mystical practices. One way or another, you will have the opportunity to visit the highest dolmen in the Caucasus.

September 3. Sochi

Old hydroelectric power station on the Basla River

This hydroelectric power station was built in 1905 to provide electricity to the capital of Abkhazia. Thanks to her, the central part of Sukhum was illuminated and hundreds of lanterns were burning on street corners throughout the city. Currently, only one generator is operating, providing electricity for the station itself. All machines and sensors are still in working order, which makes the hydroelectric power station an interesting living museum. The local watchman and guide, Grandfather Ivan, adds color to this amazing place.

Sochi is the largest resort city in Russia and the longest city in Europe

The modern history of Sochi begins in 1838, during Caucasian War, when a fort was founded here to stop the supply of weapons to the highlanders from Turkey.
The history of Sochi as a resort begins at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1909, a Russian businessman built the first sanatorium here - “Caucasian Riviera”, unique for its time and extremely popular. After Civil War The resort business in Sochi is developing with renewed vigor.
Walking around the city, we will see magnificent palaces built as sanatoriums for ordinary Soviet workers and collective farmers.

Black Sea Highway

Breathtaking views, steep serpentines, many tunnels and bridges. This will be a truly impressive journey!

4 September. and Karachay-Cherkessia

“Zhyu” – an ensemble of traditional Circassian chants and ancient musical instruments

Circassians are a group of peoples who inhabited western part North Caucasus, Abkhazia and the Cis-Caucasian steppes before the Caucasian War (i.e. until 1763). The war and the period of dominance of Soviet ideology led to the decline of Circassian culture, but the leader of “Zhyu” is making great efforts to revive traditional musical culture. He works with young people and leads an ensemble. And he'll be happy to meet us and give us a little introduction.

Alan temple of the 10th century

Alanya is a powerful and highly developed state that existed in the 6th-12th centuries on the territory of almost the entire North Caucasus, modern South Ossetia, and also occupied vast territories of the Cis-Caucasian steppes.
In the 10th century, the Alans adopted Christianity. From this time on in the hills and in high mountains began to build temples.

Soviet Astronomical Observatory

The largest optical observatory in Eurasia. We will be able to visit the main dome and hear fascinating stories about the construction of the observatory.

September 5. Essentuki and Pyatigorsk

View of Elbrus from the Gum Bashi pass

From Arkhyz to Nalchik we will go along the road through Karachaevsk. This road runs along the valley of the Maara River and climbs to the Gum Bashi pass. The famous view of Elbrus opens from the pass.

Essentuki - an aristocratic resort of the 19th century

Essentuki is a resort with history. It was a resting place for Russian officers during the Caucasian War. Later it became a great alternative Baden-Baden and other European resorts.

6 September.

Circassian saber

Checker is famous bladed weapon Circassians. Very light, very flexible and very sharp! The checker is often compared to the Japanese katana. The skill of wielding a saber was almost lost, but Felix Nakov, director national museum Kabardino-Balkaria has revived the tradition and passes it on to his students.
We will meet with Felix and his students to see with our own eyes the Circassian saber in action.

September 7.

Dargavs – “City of the Dead”

A city of crypts built during the plague epidemic in the 16th century. People who knew about their illness came here to die. Including entire families.
Now this place is one of the most interesting, frightening and impressive in the Central Caucasus.

Midagrabin waterfalls

One of the most beautiful places in the North Caucasus. There are many waterfalls in the upper reaches of the Midagrabindon River and the highest of them is Big Zeygalan, more than 600 meters high.

“ӃONA” – an ensemble of traditional Ossetian chants and ancient musical instruments

Young people who recreated ancient instruments with their own hands. They play the way their distant ancestors played and sing the ancient songs of their people. And most importantly, they are inspired to share their culture.

8 September. And

Ancient tower complexes of Ingushetia

In the Middle Ages, the Ingush were considered the best builders of towers. They were hired to build towers throughout the Central Caucasus. Many travelers say that the Ingush mountains and ancient towers, which fit so harmoniously into the landscape, are best views in the North Caucasus.

Dondi-yurt

Private Museum of Adam Satuev, the most famous ethnographic museum in Chechnya. Adam with his own hands built exact copies of buildings from the 18th century: a crypt, a tower, a house with living rooms and a kunatskaya. He collected a lot of old things: clothes, utensils, weapons. During the war, he traveled to mountain villages through checkpoints to bring exhibits to his future museum. Then many considered him a madman, but now his Dondi-yurt is one of the “ business cards» Chechnya.

9th of September. And

The Yusupov family of blacksmiths

Kharon Yusupov, the head of the family, worked for many years to recreate ancient technologies for the production of various types of steel and blades. Charon's sons continue his work. Now they are the best blacksmiths in Chechnya and work mainly for the National Gallery.

Kazenny-am – the largest Mountain Lake in the North Caucasus

On the way to we will find ourselves at Lake Kazennoy-am. It is located on the border of two republics at an altitude of 1869 meters above sea level.

10 September. : Balkhar ceramics and tightrope walkers from Tsovkra-1

Balkhar ceramics

The last village in the country that preserves ancient pottery techniques. We will see how craftswomen work and try to make vases and pots with our own hands. And, of course, we’ll take souvenirs with us.

Rope walkers Tsovkra-1

The meager mountain land could no longer feed the growing population of Tsovkra. And then people began to leave the village to earn money for their families. They came up with the idea of ​​doing circus performances, they became tightrope walkers. The villagers became known throughout Central Asia, they even reached Afghanistan! They gave performances in market squares and in the gardens of kings.
In Soviet times, tightrope walkers from Tsovkra founded a whole dynasty of circus performers and became very famous throughout the USSR.

11 September. : Kubachi

Kubachi – a village of craftsmen

Kubachi has always been a rather inaccessible village, but it was known even in Persia thanks to its craftsmen who made weapons, chain mail and jewelry.
All the indigenous residents of Kubachi are hereditary masters and are very proud of this. In general, Kubachi people are very sensitive to their identity, preserve their Kubachi language (Dargin dialect), and marry only “their own”.

Cala Koreis – “Machu Picchu” a

Kala Koreish in translation means the fortress of the Quraysh, the Arab tribe from which the Prophet Muhammad comes. It was founded in the 8th century as a border fortification of the Kaitags (one of the Dargin peoples), who, in alliance with the Khazar Jews, fought against their pagan neighbors. Over time, Kala-Koreish became the capital of the Kaitag Utsmiystvo - one of the most influential medieval states on the territory of the island. It is said that after the conquest by the Arabs it was led by a relative of Muhammad.
Now only a mosque with a mausoleum and one house are preserved there, in which an old caretaker lives.

12-th of September. : Derbent and Lezginistan

Juma mosque in Derbent

The mosque was built in 733. This is the oldest mosque in Russia and all countries of the former Soviet Union. You can feel the “breath of antiquity” in this place. But at the same time it retains its essence - this is a place for prayer.
Ordinary people living in the neighborhood come here to talk about life and pray. And every Friday the mosque gathers all the Muslims of the city.

Armenian Church in Derbent

Derbent is an old city located at the crossroads of cultures. In its history there was a Christian period, now it is the Islamic period. So many people of different nationalities came here to trade, and of course there were many Armenians.
The Armenian diaspora built this church in the 19th century. Now there is a museum here.

Naryn-Kala - the ancient fortress of Derbent

A real fortress! With high walls, the ancient Khan's palace and baths. The fortress was built in the 7th century and was rebuilt many times. The area is about 4.5 hectares.

September 13. : pilgrimage to Shalbuzdag

Ziyarat of Sheikh Suleiman on Shalbuzdag

Under the peak of Mount Shalbuzdag (4,142 m) there is a holy place - ziyarat. There is a legend about a simple shepherd Suleiman: he lived a righteous life and when he died, white doves took his body and raised it to the slope of Mount Shalbuzdag. The people in the village realized that Suleiman was a saint, and the place where his body was found became a ziyarat.
For the past few years, many pilgrims from all over have been going up to the ziyarat. In the warm months: July and August there are 500 people per day.

September 14. Return trip

Cost of participation

• 4 people in a group – 125,000 rubles.
• 5 – 14 people in a group – 109,000 rubles.
• 15 – 20 people in a group – 99,000 rubles.

Supplement for single occupancy RUB 24,000.

Price includes:

• Guide 24 hours a day
• All local guides
• Overnight
• Nutrition
• Transport
• All tickets, master classes, etc.
• Insurance
• Permits to visit the border zone

Price does not include:

• Your flights to Sochi and from Makhachkala/Baku
• Personal expenses

Tsovkra-1 - a village where ancient stones breathe history - is the highest mountain village in the Kulinsky region, located at an altitude of 2800 meters above sea level at the foot of the majestic Mount Shchunudag. A village that is famous throughout the world for its wonderful art of tightrope walking. However, there are many different versions about the origin of this art.

Venerable aksakals say that in ancient times, in search of missing animals, as well as while hunting wild animals, Tsovkrin residents had to overcome dizzying climbs and steep descents along the rocks with the help of hemp ropes (lassos). In very rough terrain they had to cross mountain rivers, abysses and flexible gorges on logs, using a pole as a support and balancer. Subsequently, they became so skilled in walking on logs, and then on a rope, that gradually rope walking became mandatory attribute folk celebrations and entertainment in the village, and later - crafts. It is thanks to the unique craft of tightrope walkers that the village became widely known in Russia and abroad. But it still remains a mystery - what laid the foundation for tightrope walking: the need to overcome mountain peaks and abysses, or the competition of Tsovkrin men in agility and dexterity in climbing over bottomless mountain gaps? History likes to pose many questions. Only one thing is indisputable: the unique art of tightrope walkers stuns the human imagination.

As for the name Tsovkra itself, there are many versions of deciphering the name of the village, but the most correct, closest to the truth, is probably the one in which the name of the village is translated as “those who knew fire” (in Lak “TSIuvkIul”)

This version coincides with the assumptions of elders and historians about the origin of rope walking. There are many legends. According to one of them, when building a new house, the Tsovkrin residents lit the first fire in its hearth from a sacred fire that blazed between huge stone blocks. Such fire was considered a talisman against the evil forces of nature, spirits, and saved the hearth from illness, misfortune, hunger and cold.

A bridge was built to the sacred fire: a smooth log on high supports. By " fire ritual", the girls had to carry the fire to their hearth, walking along a log smoothly polished by thousands of feet. If a girl can light a torch, it will bring happiness and prosperity to the owner of the new house. This ritual walking on a log required great dexterity and courage from the tsovkrinki, and falling from it, in addition to physical danger, also carried shame and suspicion of loss of innocence.

Daggosuniversity professor Magomedbag Guseikhanov cites many facts confirming that in ancient times the Tsovkrin ancestors were avid fire worshipers: “The antiquity of the village is indicated by evidence of the spread of Christianity here before the adoption of Islam. In the vicinity of the village there is a “chapur xIattalu” - a cemetery for infidels, which is more ancient than the current cemetery.

The residents of Tsovkrin apparently ate wild boars, since near the village there is a wild boar tract - “burchIanniyalu”. In the rituals and traditions of the Tsovkrin people, all the signs of Zoroastrianism, a religious teaching widespread in the 1st millennium BC, have been preserved. on Eastern Caucasus, where there was a fire cult. And even today, the rites, customs and rituals of the village of Tsovkra are characterized by the presence of fire in them: lighting bonfires, candles, wheels of fire, bringing out lamps, etc.”