How to play heavy tanks. Tactics for playing heavy tanks. knowledge of artillery saves
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Continuing the “Tankman's Manual” I would like to greet you, future rider of wild cats and small rodents. In this topic, we will take a detailed look (even look under the tail) at how to curb the power of a tiger and learn the tricks of a mouse tamer.
The German heavy tank, like all other classes of equipment in the World of Tanks, has its own strengths and weaknesses, so our task is to learn to use the strong ones and not expose the weak ones. Before you learn how to play a heavy tank correctly, I suggest you think carefully again. First of all, a heavy tank is a favorite dish of artillery, and the German tank especially, because it is heavy, clumsy and slow. But this is not the end, every other insect, whether on a medium tank or on a tank, also wants to hurt you, because they envy you, and your death will give them the opportunity to assert themselves: “I am so weak, I killed such a big and strong one.” If you are not afraid of everyone's attention and future difficulties, then everything you read next will turn you from “ZerGutt Soldaten” into “Ger Ofitsiren”!
To understand how to play heavy tanks, let's first learn how to drive our heavy tank. 1. Drive straight.
I really don’t recommend that you get behind a tank after drinking too much Schnapps, your heavy tank is already very slow, and if you also do a lot of meandering on it, you won’t have time to get to the battlefield at all. Try to turn as little as possible, immediately turn in the right direction and go straight, this way you will maintain maximum speed. When turning, a heavy tank loses a lot of speed, and then wastes time accelerating. 2. Time is money.
Don’t stand on the respawn, meaningfully rotating the turret, choose your direction of battle and move there. Often “ZerGutt Zoldaten” stand on the spawn and wait for the team to share in order to cover the unprotected flank, but then a firefly flies in, followed by a gift miracle from enemy artillery and the battle begins with 50% of life. A heavy tank must understand where its place is in the battle and move there immediately. My dear Hans, the Russians have a wise saying: “God protects the careful.” When you move to the battlefield, do not neglect camouflage, avoid open areas and move through the bushes; again, if yesterday the beer and sausages were stale, you can relieve yourself far from the tank. Even if this is the very beginning of the battle, still do not move in open areas, because while you are crawling up the mountain, the enemy PT has taken its place and will see you halfway across the map.
Now that we can use the power of thought and the accelerator to make our wild cats move, let's practice shooting accuracy.
1. Hit the eye. German guns are very "ZerGutt" in terms of accuracy and this advantage must be used. Wait until the gun is at maximum aim, don't be afraid to shoot at very long distances, and even if you only see a small part of the enemy tank, in most cases you will be pleasantly surprised by the hit.
2. Stop and then shoot. Heavy tanks are very inaccurate in movement; it is better to stop and hit than to shoot while moving and miss. Of course, you need to look at the situation, but if there is an opportunity, then stop and take aim.
3. Be a sniper. If you decide to stop for a shot, then this shot must be from sniper mode. There is no point in shooting at random at an enemy tank, there are a lot of impenetrable places or places where it ricochets, aim with every shot and the result will be there!
Now let’s combine all our skills, add a little tactics and ingenuity to them and learn how to fight.
1. Know your place. Each tank must know its place on the battlefield. The place of a heavy tank is where there is cover and less open space. A heavy tank must fight under cover from artillery or in narrow places where it cannot be bypassed and will always have to be hit only in the forehead. Leave fields, plateaus, plains for fast and invisible tanks, a heavy tank is an easy target there.
2. Become a diamond. No matter what distance you are fighting at, stand at an angle to the enemy, this will increase your armor (everyone knows that at an angle a projectile has to penetrate a greater thickness of armor), and you will also increase the chance of a ricochet. German heavy tanks need this much more than tanks of other nations, because they are shaped like boxes. Just don’t overdo it with the angle, otherwise you’ll expose the side.
3. Keep your distance. Our heavy tanks are very tall and this must be taken into account in battle. If you decide to fight head-on with a heavy tank of another nation, then keep in mind: Soviet heavy tanks are low, standing close you will have to hit them in the turret, where the armor is thicker and the angles are larger, American tanks, on the contrary, are tall like you, but their turret is covered by a huge a gun mask that does not penetrate, and their guns will easily penetrate your turret forehead. I recommend that all "UndOfficerin" fight at some distance with enemy heavy tanks.
4. Hit the groin. Every Hans knows that a blow to the groin is painful! Therefore, every Hans must know the vulnerabilities of all his opponents. In fact, this rule is the same for all heavy tanks. Heavy tanks fight more than others at close ranges and therefore can conduct targeted fire at critical points of the tank. You need to hit where your gun can penetrate the armor, for this you need to know these places, but it’s better to go into the training room with a friend and fire at each other. Just practice hitting in the forehead, you will hit the sides and stern everywhere, but the enemy is unlikely to set them up for you.
5. Move your body. Many medium tanks rely on their speed, circling around our heavy tanks, hoping that our turret will not have time to turn after them and, in the end, such a twist will make the gunner sick. So, so that the gunner doesn’t feel like he’s in a centrifuge, and the turret keeps up with medium tanks, help it with your hull. Even on the slowest Mouse, you can manage to turn the turret and hit a medium tank by tightening the tank's hull after the turret.
6. Don't let yourself down. The simplest but most fundamental rule that many people neglect. Always face your opponent! I still decided to add this point, since I have seen countless times how heavy tanks lost to a weaker enemy because they were lazy or forgot to turn their front towards them, exposing the sides and stern. But don't forget about point 2.
Beginner World of Tanks players who encounter a heavy tank for the first time experience a bit of shock. Just now everything was good and simple - small sandbox tanks joyfully and thoughtlessly destroyed each other... and then suddenly a huge invulnerable colossus is rushing towards you, capable of killing you with one shot. Is it even possible to win? such?
Understanding how to act comes later, but the impression of the first meeting remains and often changes development priorities for many players. Only when they reach the first “heavies” do they understand that life for heavy tanks is not easy either, and that in order to realize their advantages, special tactics are needed.
Basic principles
Heavy tanks are the most powerful combat vehicles in the game. They cannot boast the mobility and tactical flexibility inherent in medium vehicles, but it is the actions of heavy tanks that most often shape the tactical pattern of the game. The task of such a tank is to take advantage of the advantages of armor, survivability and firepower to break through the enemy’s defenses. After this, less protected vehicles will rush into the breakthrough, destroying artillery and outflanking the enemy from the rear and flanks.
Even if the armor is strong, a meeting with several opponents at once is unlikely to end well.
In defense, a heavy tank does not allow enemy vehicles to operate freely in their area - trying to get past it is more expensive for yourself, and destroying a skilled heavy tank is not easy. But keep in mind - if left alone with several, even lighter and less advanced enemy machines, your “heavy” can turn from a predator into a prey.
Therefore, the first rule of a good “heavy” is that no matter how well your tank is protected, you should not play a lone hero. If you discover that you are the only one who is going to cover an important area, do not hesitate to demand help.
Also, you shouldn’t, like many novice “heavy lifters,” go to enemy positions thoughtlessly and headlong, relying solely on the power of the armor. Armor does not cancel or replace tactics, and cross-fire, concentrated fire and artillery support will easily disable any tank that imagines itself to be impenetrable.
Excessive caution, however, does not paint heavy cars either. A heavy tank sitting in the bushes while a tank destroyer goes on the attack is a frequent sight, but no less shameful, and a “heavy tank” remaining at the base at the beginning of the battle cannot be called anything other than ballast for the team. This “tactics” that came from the “sandbox,” if I may say so, can occasionally bring success, but not to the team, but to a specific player. Before dying under crossfire and artillery shelling, the brave ambush KV (for some reason they are the ones who suffer from this most often, it goes away as you increase in level...) will have time to blow up a couple of damaged vehicles and feel like a hero. But when the fate of the team was being decided on the front line, the comrades might simply not have enough armor and firepower.
Covers and camouflage
Nothing can get past a heavy tank in defense!
Most of the battle time, a heavy tank is in close contact with the enemy, which means its location is known to the enemy. To prevent a large and not very maneuverable vehicle from becoming easy prey for artillery, you need to use shelters on the ground - buildings, stone boulders, hills, mountains, that is, everything that blocks the line of fire and makes targeted artillery fire impossible. A cautious heavy tank advances from one cover to another in order to have a reliable position when meeting the enemy.
In battle, having retreated behind cover, the heavy vehicle gets time to reload and field repair damaged modules. He will be able to wait for artillery support or the arrival of backup, being in relative safety. Therefore, the plain is the worst possible terrain for an attack, and the city is the best. After all, in a street battle, any building is a ready-made shelter. There is no infantry in the game, and no one is preparing a surprise like a bazooka/panzerschreck shot from a gateway or a bunch of grenades from a window, but narrow streets and tall buildings complicate the work of artillery and do not allow medium-sized vehicles to bypass the “heavy” from the flank. However, do not underestimate enemy artillery! Always pay attention to enemy tracers to approximate the position of the gunners and position yourself accordingly.
Poor Leo hardly even had time to understand what was happening.
A common mistake in positional combat is coming out from behind cover at a right angle to the intended line of fire. Many players lean out from behind cover along the shortest trajectory, exposing the side to the enemy and simply turning the turret in his direction. This method gives a gain in speed, but even on vehicles with uniform armor, the side is more vulnerable (the side armor plates do not have any noticeable slope), penetration into the side has a greater chance of damaging some module, and it is much easier to shoot down a track with a shot from the side.
The high probability of complete loss of mobility under enemy fire eliminates all the speed advantages of the “perpendicular” method of leaving cover.
It is better to spend a little more time and enter the area under fire with the frontal armor forward - so as to take enemy fire to the most protected area. Moreover, in this situation, even if it loses its track, the tank will not remain completely defenseless.
On a well-covered map without much cover, heavy tanks resort to camouflage according to the same rules as tank destroyers. However, it is worth considering that it is easier to detect a heavy tank, so if possible, change your position after a shot or the passage of an enemy scout.
Equipment and crew
The hulls of downed comrades provide good shelter from direct fire.
The heavy tank takes most of the damage inflicted by the enemy team and fights at close and medium ranges, where split seconds count. Therefore, among the equipment, he first of all needs means to increase the density of fire, strengthen key components and speed up repairs. In principle, that says it all - a gun rammer, a wet ammunition rack (alas, you can’t increase the strength of the gun) and a toolbox - that’s our choice. The crew should develop repairs first and firefighting second. When the repair is well developed (around 80%), you can replace the box with something else, for example, ventilation or devices to improve aiming.
On a note: A module is considered damaged when its health points drop to 50%, incapacitated when the damage inflicted is equal to or exceeds 100% of its strength. Field repair from this state returns the module to 50% strength.
A camouflage network is unlikely to be useful for heavy vehicles - the larger the tank, the more difficult it is to camouflage it, and the increase in stealth will be very small. The set of consumables for a heavy tank is quite standard - first aid kit, repair kit, fire extinguisher. Try to install an automatic fire extinguisher; it is not only more likely to extinguish a fire, but also reduces the likelihood of its occurrence, which is very important for heavy vehicles.
Anti-fragmentation lining
The lining also protects against explosions near the tank, but the gain here will be meager.
Anti-fragmentation lining is one of the most controversial modules in the game. Many players praise it very much and strongly recommend it for installation. +15% damage absorption from explosions and rams - that sounds really cool. But let's figure out how it really is.
The mechanism of operation of high-explosive fragmentation shells in the game is as follows: if the shell hits but does not penetrate the armor, the damage from it is divided by two and is subtracted from the tank’s hit points, losing 1.3 damage points for each millimeter of armor of the affected area of the vehicle. The lining enhances damage absorption at this level, increasing it to about 1.5 hit points for every millimeter of armor. Thus, it is not difficult to calculate that the gain from knocking will be 20 hit points per 100 mm of armor. The average damage of the B-4 artillery gun (SU-14, S-51) is 1850 points. Keep in mind that the lining weighs a lot and takes up space that could be used for something else.
Soviet heavy vehicles are the best balanced. If we compare tanks in terms of mobility, protection and firepower, then German and American vehicles of comparable levels are often significantly superior to Soviet ones in one of the characteristics, but at the same time seriously lose in the remaining two.
HF
The first heavy vehicle of the Soviet branch and the most formidable of the fifth level tanks. It is well armored for its level, almost invulnerable to weaker tanks, but its armor is noticeably lacking when facing vehicles of higher levels, and its silhouette is too high, especially for the top turret of the KV-2. But even in a battle with more advanced tanks, the KV can stand up for itself thanks to its firepower.
The choice of weapons is impressive - four units, not counting the base one. Particularly good are the powerful, well-balanced 107 mm ZiS-6 gun (the seventh level gun on a fifth tank) and the 152 mm M-10. In terms of damage from a high-explosive shell, it is equal to the basic SU-152 gun. The downside is that it takes a very long time to reload, is difficult to aim and has a huge spread, which forces it to be used mainly at close ranges. But with a successful point-blank shot, this gun can destroy a T-34-85 with one hit. Which of these weapons is best for you depends on your play style.
The biggest disadvantages of the HF are its poor mobility and frankly short viewing radius (350 meters). Without reconnaissance, this tank is guaranteed to arrive right into the arms of a waiting ambush.
KV-1S
One of the options for developing HF at the sixth level of the game. In fact, this is a more maneuverable and high-speed version of the same KV. Improved performance was achieved by reducing the protection of the hull sides, and the front of the Kvass is protected in the same way as the KV, which is no longer enough for the sixth level. Increased maneuverability does not compensate for this disadvantage, which is why many players call the KV-1S a “sub-medium” tank.
In general, the KV-1S is significantly inferior in efficiency to the KV-3 - another variant of the KV development - and therefore is rarely seen in the game.
KV-3
This Tier 6 tank is a real tough nut to crack. It is protected just perfectly for its stage (120 mm on the front of the hull - this is more than that of the “Tiger”!), is weakly vulnerable to fire both from the front and from the side, and can fight with the “Tiger” if not on equal terms , then almost.
It boasts excellent D2-5T and D10-T guns, the noticeable disadvantage of which is expensive maintenance. In addition, these guns require almost the same amount of experience points to open as opening the next tank in the branch. But if you study them, they will serve the Soviet tanker for a very long time; the D10-T is even installed on the IS-4.
All the shortcomings of the KV-3 can be summed up in one word - slow. Slowly drives and turns (even with an improved engine and chassis), slowly turns the turret, slowly closes and reloads the gun.
IP
A Soviet heavy tank of the seventh level does not gain much in terms of security compared to the KV-3. The same 120 mm of armor on the front of the hull, except that the slope has increased slightly. The tower has completely lost its dimensions - it was 130 mm, now it is 100 (more streamlined shapes, however, offset this drawback). The IC wins primarily in size and dynamics. It is more compact, more maneuverable, turns the turret faster and is armed with the D-25T gun, which is similar in every way to the D2-5T, but has a faster firing rate.
It has practically no disadvantages. In short, this is one of the best tanks at level seven.
IS-3
An outstanding car in every way. The IS-3 is well protected, has a low and streamlined shape that was revolutionary for its time, and has impressive firepower. At long distances head-on, the IS-3 is almost invulnerable to tanks of lower and even equal levels. This vehicle has virtually no drawbacks (except for the fact that there are several tanks in the game that are even more advanced and deadly), and it can easily be called the best heavy tank of the eighth level.
IS-4
IS-7
The most powerful of the Soviet tanks and the fastest heavy tank in the game. The IS-7 is not much inferior in mobility to some medium-sized vehicles and can accelerate to 50 km/h - this is two and a half times higher than the speed of the Mouse. The IS-7 is armored about the same as the IS-4, but the incredible angles of the frontal armor and the streamlined shape of the turret make it an extremely difficult target. It also has enormous firepower - 195-325 armor penetration and 368-613 damage with a basic projectile. This is without a doubt one of the best and most dangerous tanks in the game and the most balanced tier 10 tank.
German branch
The German branch of heavy tanks is the shortest. There are only four vehicles - from a lightly protected tank, which at one time seemed invincible, to a self-propelled fort prototype that never left the stage.
PzKpfw VI Tiger
Many players complain that this Panzerwaffe legend in the game is not at all as scary, invulnerable and deadly as she should have been. Well, indeed, for a heavy tank of the seventh level, the Tiger is not very well protected. Just 100 mm of unsloped armor in front and 80 mm on the sides.
However, it must be borne in mind that the game does not reconstruct the battles of World War II, where the “Tiger” would have had to face mainly the short-lived “thirty-fours” and “Shermans” when meeting with it, but clearly shows us the history of tank-building thought and the development of tanks. The possibility of a collision with the T-29, which had not reached the prototype stage, and post-war tanks, like the IS-3 or T54, were not foreseen by the creators and technical specifications of the Tiger. The Tiger makes up for its relatively weak protection with good maneuverability and remarkable accuracy and rate of fire of the 8.8 cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon. This weapon can also be used on the IS-3.
PzKpfw VIB Tiger II
The Royal Tiger is much better armored. 150 mm of sloping frontal armor on the hull is very serious. However, to make the Tiger 2 a truly effective machine, you need to replace the base turret as quickly as possible. Why shoot at a well-protected hull if you can hit a turret with 100 mm of armor that is ridiculous for level 8? A meeting with the IS-3 in such situations turns into a lottery - whether the enemy knows or does not know about this feature, whether he can distinguish a “stock” turret from a “top-end” one. It’s more offensive to meet other CTs - they know for sure! The modernized turret with 180 mm of frontal armor solves this problem completely and turns the Tiger 2 into a vehicle almost equal to the IS-3. This one, however, seems preferable to me due to its lower silhouette and streamlined shape.
VK4502(P) Ausf. B
Maus
The 188-ton wonder-yudo is the largest, most armored and heaviest tank in the game. He pays for this with very little mobility - his speed is only 20 km/h. Because of this, and also because of the size of the “if you want it, you won’t miss it” type, we are very fond of artillery. Well suited for defense: standing in an area inaccessible to artillery fire so that no one will ever pass through here is for him. It’s also good in the offensive - when the huge carcass of the “Mouse” takes on the fire of almost the entire enemy team, while its comrades are flanked, the result is simply wonderful. An almost invulnerable mobile fortress - it’s worth developing the German branch for its sake!
| A meeting of equal machines is always interesting trial. |
American branch
American heavy tanks never appeared on the fields of World War II - the US Army made do with medium vehicles and a large fleet of tank destroyers. However, experimental work was carried out, and a number of interesting prototypes were built. World of Tanks allows us to try them out.
T1 Hvy
M6
Almost the same T1, only with frontal armor reinforced to 102 mm and a much more impressive range of guns. What is the “top” 90-mm Gun M3 worth - a wonderful gun (basic on the Pershing, by the way!), capable of hitting any target of the sixth or seventh level.
Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the same very poorly protected sides and the long repair time for the caterpillar. However, the latter also applies to T1.
T29
T32
T-34
T30
My favorite among the tenth level tanks. The T30, in general, is the same T34 in the “top” configuration, however, the excellent 120mm film was replaced with... it’s difficult for me to find the right epithet, perhaps the word “divine” would not be too much here. So, the 120 mm cannon was replaced with a divine 155 mm gun with armor penetration of 207-345 and damage of 563-938. A gun capable of destroying a “slipper” for almost half of its life with one successful shot is too good! Such firepower, as well as good mobility, completely compensate for its low level of protection by the standards of higher levels. The T30 works best as a second-line tank, supporting the advance of better-protected vehicles with fire.
The well-known online game World Of Tanks has gained considerable popularity over its three years of existence. As in other similar games, your task is to compete with other players. But the peculiarity of this game is based on such small details as individual modules, where the level of armor or damage is always different, and therefore vulnerable points have different locations.
While playing World Of Tanks, you very often heard the phrase “didn’t break through” or “armor didn’t break through.” It’s not as trivial as in other games that if, say, the sword’s damage is less than the enemy’s armor, then you won’t penetrate in any case. No, that's not true. In this tank simulator you just have to look for weak, easily penetrated points.
The most armored vehicle class in the game is undoubtedly (TT). The whole point is that this vehicle is armored (if we take all modules separately) more than any other class.
If, playing against a TT, you cannot break through, remember - every TT (no matter what level) always has a point in front where you can easily break through. Of course, it’s not always convenient to shoot at such points, but what can you do? Therefore, the first, and perhaps the most basic rule of the game on TT is to know where the tank is nailed, including yours, so as not to expose the points to be penetrated.
Second rule . It is not necessary to learn and cram all the points on all tanks. The main thing is to be able to play your tank. Knowing where the tanker is located in the tank, the angle of the “safe” tilt of the tank, the level of armor, and easy (and difficult) places to penetrate - you will be able to fully control your tank, which is an important topic during the game.
Third rule . Properly position the tank hull. To save themselves from another hit, many (mostly German) tanks use a diamond hull position. Due to their rectangular shape, German tanks place their front corner directly at the enemy's muzzle. This way you guarantee a rebound. When playing on US and British tanks, you do not become a diamond, but directly with your forehead towards the enemy, moving your body to the side by 10-20 degrees. The diamond position is not used on Soviet and Chinese (as well as French) tanks.
Rule four. When playing on TT, you will have to tank very often. If you know the correct angle at which you can drive without exposing your opponent's forehead, then such a system will be very useful. If you don't know how to tank, don't play TT!
Rule number five . If you like to play with such TTs, where the turret is heavily armored, or the gun is low (or even better, both), then you can easily use the terrain. It’s best when the enemy is on the mountain, and when he leaves, he exposes vulnerable spots, and you are on the mountainside, from where you can easily hit the enemy and still remain unharmed. Tanks are best suited for such tactics (mainly after the 8th level of equipment).
Sixth rule . When playing TT, remember one thing - Arta is your most terrible enemy. Even taking into account the release of the latest updates, where the art was greatly reduced, this is not a reason to relax. Remember that the main goal has always been, is, and will be slow technique (in particular TT).
Rule number seven. A true TT lover will never take the French. TTs are difficult to classify as real heavy tanks, since their armor level does not correspond to the category of such tanks. So all the rules listed before do not apply to French (as well as).
It will be important in a proper team game eighth rule . Since you are playing TT (this does not apply to the French, again), then remember - you are TT, and you should always go first, and take the first shots, using the skills that you have acquired by reading this article. This is your task. The rest depends on your allies.
Rule number nine apply not only to TT, but also to other types of equipment. Watch the mini map. Since you are playing as a slow tank, you will need to try to predict the action on the map before the fighting begins. The result of the battle, as well as your position, depends on this. By following the mini map, you can change the position of the battle.
The last one, as well as global rule , is that you must know your task, position, and also understand how responsible you are for the battle, and what may depend on you.
It seems like just a game, but everything in it is done in so much detail that for many World Of Tanks has become more than just a game to spend free time, or to play with friends.
2-07-2016, 01:58
Hello to all World of Tanks fans, especially those who love heavy tanks. Today we will talk about a real giant, a giant whose size and weight surpasses all of his classmates - this is the O-I guide.
You all know very well that this vehicle is a Japanese heavy tank of the sixth level and have repeatedly heard positive reviews about this heavy tank. Now we will look at the O-I performance characteristics and everyone can decide for themselves whether these rumors are true.
TTX O-I
To begin with, it’s worth saying that we have at our disposal a good margin of safety for our level and a good basic view of 370 meters, which can be overclocked, as shown in the screenshot above.
If we consider the O-I armor characteristics, then there are practically no complaints and the armor of the vehicle is very interesting. Our front and rear hulls are equally well armored, due to which we can easily tank most of our classmates and even some level seven tanks. But the sides are loose and can only be placed at a very steep angle. When the WoT O-I tank gets to the bottom of the list, armor stops deciding and the huge dimensions only harm us.
Everything is fine with the turret; it is equally well armored all around, so there’s nothing to talk about here.
Regarding mobility, everything is much worse. As you may have noticed, this Japanese weighs more than 150 tons and this figure is only good for ramming. Otherwise, this is a big minus, because due to the huge mass, mobility suffers greatly. So O-I World of Tanks reaches its maximum speed very poorly, has disgusting dynamics and frankly poor maneuverability, a real big turtle.
gun
In terms of weapons, this unit is very interesting and this aspect is considered its main feature. The thing is that we are given two guns to choose from, each of which has a full right to life.
First, let's look at the top O-I gun - it is a high explosive, very similar to the one on the legendary KV-2. This barrel is famous for its huge one-time damage, and you can shoot both AP guns and land mines, however, in the second case you will deal 100% damage no matter what enemy you shoot at.
This gun has poor armor penetration, but its main disadvantages are disgusting accuracy, huge dispersion, long aiming time and a very long reload. But, having loaded a landmine or even an AP, a heavy O-I tank can demolish even a classmate with one shot.
The second option is a stock gun, but don’t rush to write it off, because many people prefer it. The fact is that it has higher armor penetration, which is enough to penetrate all classmates, and for battles at the bottom of the list, there is a good golda.
The one-time damage of this barrel is also decent, and a more pleasant reload time allows you to develop more damage per minute than a high-explosive weapon due to more stable shooting.
At the same time, the World of Tanks O-I tank engages with this gun faster, and it has more pleasant accuracy and dispersion indicators.
Another very important and tricky nuance is that we have good vertical aiming angles (-10 degrees down). But don’t rush to rejoice, the gun lowers worse from the side, and even when “looking” back or forward, large machine-gun turrets prevent it from completely lowering, so not in all planes the O-I WoT is able to lower its gun by 10 degrees.
Advantages and disadvantages
Now it’s time to sum up the first results, because the analysis of the main parameters and characteristics of the guns is left behind. Now we will separately highlight the strengths and weaknesses of this unit, because everything here is very ambiguous. I would like to immediately note that the O-I World of Tanks ratings will be based on the fact that we will get into battle at the top or middle of the list, since fighting against tanks two levels higher is always not a pleasant pleasure.
Pros:
Good booking;
Powerful and variable weapons;
Not a bad review;
Decent safety margin.
Minuses:
Disgusting mobility;
Huge dimensions;
Poor accuracy and convergence time;
Problematic vertical aiming angles.
Equipment for O-I
Of course, when installing additional modules on any tank, you must take care to enhance the existing advantages of the vehicle or neutralize its weaknesses. In a situation with O-I, equipment is selected based on the same considerations:
1. – always be placed if there is such an opportunity, because it allows us to increase our DPM.
2. – everything is very clear here, you need to do something with poor accuracy and this is the only good way to speed up mixing.
3. – a comprehensive increase in important parameters, never superfluous.
As usual, there are several alternatives to the last point, the first of which will be, because with it the tank becomes more sighted. The second variation is, it is placed because the Japanese heavy tank O-I is slow and very large, so artillery will hit us often.
Crew training
The choice of skills for the crew is no less important, and in our case everything is again ambiguous, since for some reason they put a second radio operator in the tank. However, you still need to make the most of everything and learn the following from O-I perks:
Commander - , , , .
Gunner – , , , .
Driver mechanic - , , , .
Radio operator – , , , .
Radio operator – , , , .
Loader – , , , .
Equipment for O-I
In terms of selection of consumables, everything is standard. In order to save money, the best option would be to carry, and. If you want reliability and increased survivability, because we will have to tank often, it is better to take premium equipment for O-I, where the fire extinguisher can be replaced with.
Tactics for playing O-I
The last but not least important point concerns how to play this giant. Regardless of which weapon you choose, on O-I, combat tactics come down to who you're fighting.
If you get into a fight at the top of the list, you can feel like a king. Our defense is strong, and our place is the first line where all the fun happens. Of course, the ideal option would be a city map, where we can hide behind the houses and there won’t be enough art for us. At the same time, the O-I WoT heavy tank can tank either with its forehead, turning the hull quite a bit, or with its side, moving out from behind cover in a reverse diamond shape, but at a serious angle. In such realities, everyone is afraid of our gun, and the emotions from one-shots (if a high explosive is selected) are indescribable.
As for battles against the eighth levels, everything is much worse. The armor no longer seems so good, the safety margin is quickly running out and the huge dimensions of O-I World of Tanks are playing against us. In this case, it is better to stay away, try to completely close down and deal damage, peeking from behind the covers and backs of your comrades.
In any case, remember, our worst enemy is artillery, so you always need to take a position wisely. In addition, due to limited mobility, a heavy O-I tank can rightfully be considered a one-way vehicle, choosing which one you will have to go to the end. Try to analyze the situation, deceive the enemy, trick him into shooting, and better not be left alone. With a superior number of enemies, we are like a mammoth that has been driven into a corner.
Otherwise, the O-I tank is worth upgrading, it is rightfully considered the pearl of its development tree and brings a lot of fun in every battle in the top, especially if you play with a high explosive.
Heavy tanks are the quintessence of the very idea of early tank building, according to which a combat vehicle must be large, heavy and well armored. This means maximum protection from enemy fire. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the 5 main points that every tanker on heavy equipment should know.
In World of Tanks, many players begin their journey by upgrading the branches of heavy tanks, or TT for short. We rode at lower levels - we met him in battle - we didn’t hit him twenty times - we raked him - “Oh, and I want one for myself!”
But life for heavy tanks in WoT is far from easy. Sometimes even the best players go straight to the hangar at the very beginning of battles, let alone fighters. Today we will talk about the most important points that everyone who wants to effectively play heavy tanks should know and remember.
1 skill to use your armor
“,” you will say, and you will be partly right. With the introduction of silver and the development of gaming artillery, truly difficult times have come for those who like to play “from armor.” It can be very disappointing on an IS-7 to receive a cumulative blast from some T-55A straight into what would seem to be the forehead of the turret, and even with damage...However, skill is the key to success in playing TT. In the end, not everyone shoots gold, and increased penetration is far from a panacea. Craftsmen manage to extract from some battles both 10 and 15 thousand of damage blocked by armor, and the unique ones even more, the record figures are absolutely sky-high.
To repeat their success, you need to clearly know the armoring features of your specific tank. For example, a “cardboard” AMX 50 100 can be penetrated with a well-placed slipper, the KV-1 is good if you place it in a “diamond” shape, the American T32 has a completely impenetrable turret forehead, but the E100’s turret just needs to be turned a little to increase the chance of not being penetrated. If you know the capabilities of your heavy tanks by heart and try to use their strengths, life in random and beyond will become noticeably easier. Therefore, watch, study collision models and in battle try to act in accordance with the situation. You should not expect an effective game if you try to tank with your head on the T-29 or with your side on the T110E5.
It is worth noting that competent tanking is impossible without studying maps and terrain. Knowing from which hill you can trade a tower or from which corner you can tank on the side will be truly indispensable when playing TT.
2 knowledge of artillery saves
, aka art, is the real scourge of WoT. Whatever one may say, they usually turn out to be much more fun and driving, because there is no need to squeeze into walls and hills, praying that a suitcase with a “brown” gift does not fall onto the lid of the engine compartment, which will take the lion’s share of strength points.
Accordingly, when getting into battle, it is imperative to correctly assess the quantity and quality of enemy artillery, and think through the route of movement so that there is somewhere to hide from possible fire. The walls of houses, large stones, steep hillsides, and, with luck, even the skeletons of destroyed tanks will do. But it is simply necessary to be able to hide from artillery, otherwise the battle will have every chance of ending as soon as it has begun. remember, that There should always be a shelter nearby.
3 competent choice of attack direction
Heavy tanks, with rare exceptions, are very slow-moving; you cannot jump on them from flank to flank. Therefore, it is very important to choose the right direction of attack at the beginning of the battle. So as not to find yourself alone in an open field under fire from enemy tank destroyers, but to bring maximum benefit to the team.This requires a good knowledge of maps, namely where a heavy tank should go. For example, at Himmelsdorf you can have a great time tanking in a banana boat, but it’s a very long drive to the castle, there is every chance of being in time for the final analysis - by the time you climb the mountain, either yours will be killed, or everyone of yours will be killed.
It is also important to pay attention to allied departures. Random players often like to rush in one direction with the whole herd, completely exposing one of the flanks. It is, of course, impossible to defend it alone, but if, say, two allies go there, then it is worthwhile to tag along with a third. This seriously increases the chances, if not completely, of giving the rest of the allies enough time to push in another direction.
In general, look at and think about where you will be most useful. Changing positions on TT often will not work; the fate of the battle may depend on your choice.
4 ability to correctly exchange HP
TT is the main striking force of the game. Her task is to push directions using her armor and a considerable amount of HP (strength points). But no matter how we tank, no matter what “diamonds” we become, with this style of play, sooner or later our tank will take damage.
Thus, finding yourself at the forefront of an attack, it is very important to be able to competently exchange your HP in order to inflict as much damage as possible, receiving as little as possible in response. Here, not only the ability to use armor and knowledge will come in handy, but also a competent choice of targets. For example, if there are two enemies against you, one of which is shot, almost it always makes sense to get it first, reducing the number of guns on the enemy team. Or, if your tank has a fast reload, it makes sense to go at someone, getting hit once, but giving damage twice. Competent tactical actions are the key to a comfortable game and stable shooting.
5 knowledge of penetration zones of enemy vehicles
After all, World of Tanks is a game about damage, regardless of what type of vehicle you play, and heavy tanks are no exception to this rule. And in order to consistently apply it, you need to clearly understand who and where you can hit. Of course, there are general rules, for example, almost all tanks have VLDs that are much stronger than NLDs, but the same German VK 45.02 (P) Ausf. They are the same in thickness, and you can shoot at the lower armor plate ad infinitum, being surprised at the lack of penetration. The KV-1S has a strong turret, and the Churchill III has cardboard, armored Lowe is sewn into the cheeks...
To shoot well, you need to know where to shoot. And this should not be forgotten even in the hottest moments of the battle.