Making a miter box from scrap materials. Miter box - from simple to precision, how to use the tool correctly How to make a miter box on paper

A ceiling plinth has many functions. The detail aesthetically hides all irregularities on the ceiling, walls, and also makes the joint smooth. In addition, the assortment of moldings is large, it allows you to choose beautiful linings that will become a true decoration of the ceiling space. Mounting the lamella requires a certain skill. The main question of the craftsmen is how to make a corner on the ceiling plinth. The process is really difficult and does not always work out the first time. Consider what is needed to complete the work and how to make the joints even.

Tools for the job

The wizard will need the following set:

• pencil;
• tape measure or ruler;
• hacksaw;
• miter box.

What is a skirting board miter box? This is a device that is a tray made of wood or plastic and equipped with slots. The holes are made to cut at 45 and 90 degrees. Some trays have the ability to trim and with an angle of 60 degrees, as well as at any angle - for this there are rotating knife blades.

What and what to cut

A sharp stationery knife or a hacksaw - which one to choose? To begin with, decide what material the ceiling plinth is made of. And depending on this, you already have to choose a cutting tool:

1. Expanded polystyrene. Fragile material that crumbles easily. An inexpensive option fits any ceiling, and is cut with a knife or hacksaw. When working, do not press hard on the lamella so that it does not crack. Also, do not press the molding to the base, this deteriorates the texture and leaves traces of fingers.
2. PVC. Slightly more durable material for budget repairs. But you also need careful handling. Cut with a knife or hacksaw. But during installation, take into account the high electrostaticity of the lamellas - all the dust of the room will settle on them.
3. Extruded polystyrene foam. It has sufficient strength and reliability, which is why it is more expensive. When cutting, it does not crumble, does not break. Cut with a construction knife or a hacksaw for metal.
4. Tree. Durable, practical and expensive material. Cut with a very fine-toothed hacksaw so that the cuts are straight. Large teeth often leave jagged edges, the lamellae irreparably deteriorate.
5. Polyurethane. Also reliable and durable material, but poorly resistant to climate change. Cut with a construction knife, a hacksaw for metal. It is better to fix it in living rooms, halls or bedrooms - where there will definitely not be an excess of cold / heat or moisture.

Advice! In the absence of experience in cutting corners, it is easier to use ready-made overhead corners for ceiling plinths. In this case, trimming the fillet at an angle of 90 degrees is enough, the errors will be covered with an overhead corner.

Trimming the corners of the ceiling plinth

Once the lamellas are selected, inspected for defects, the base is ready, it's time to get down to business. There are two options for pruning: with and without a miter box. Let's consider how to cut skirting boards to the ceiling in the corners in both ways.

Slicing with miter box

And here, too, there are two options for cutting: the external and internal angles. Let's start simple.

Trimming an inner corner has the following algorithm:

1. To measure the length of the element, the part is applied to the ceiling.
2. Now install the measured piece in the miter box so that the position of the molding is the same as on the ceiling.
3. Hold the plinth with your left hand, making sure that the element is firmly pressed against the wall of the miter box, it is located a little further.
4. The part of the plinth that will be attached to the ceiling should be on top, and the other part is firmly pressed against the bottom of the miter box.
5. The blade of the hacksaw is turned 45 degrees - this should be checked and you can start cutting with the hacksaw. The location of the cutting tool is very close to the left hand.
6. Do not press hard on the knife or hacksaw when cutting.

After finishing trimming, you can process the adjacent skirting board. The peculiarity of trimming in "mirror" reflection to the previous one - this is how a joint without gaps is obtained.

Important! When working with fillets made of PVC, expanded polystyrene, you should start from the front side of the product. This makes the trimming more accurate.

And now about how to cut the outer corner of the ceiling plinth with your own hands. To do this, you will need to make several measurements and calculations:

• measure the distance from the corner on the outside to the nearest wall;
• on the reverse side of the plinth, mark a line along the length of the measurement so that the upper part of the die protrudes slightly outward.

Now you can trim. To do this, also install the fillet in the miter box, carefully cut the product. With an adjacent strip, take the same measurements and cut mirror-like in relation to the first fillet.

Checking the result

To evaluate what has been done, you need to attach the lamellas to the ceiling and look at the joint zones. There should be no cracks, notches, the tighter the fit, the better the trimming is. If there are errors, they are corrected with a sharp knife - achieving a perfect fit.

Advice! The use of a miter box is advisable when trimming a 90 degree angle. If you need to cut at a different angle, the manual option will do.

Trimming skirting boards manually

The procedure will be a little more complicated. It is better to practice on trimming lamellas, so that later on to properly trim whole fillets. The manual trimming method has its advantages: it is more convenient to trim the inner corners and the cutting is more accurate. The downside when handling heavy skirting boards is that they are difficult to hold.

Work algorithm:

1. Cut the workpieces at an angle of 90 degrees.
2. Attach the plank to the ceiling, resting its end against the wall, which is perpendicular to the plinth.
3. With a pencil, draw fillet contour lines on the ceiling.
4. Do the same with the adjacent skirting board: attach to the ceiling, make markings.
5. Examining the drawing, mark the point of intersection of the lines - this is where you need to cut off. For accuracy, reattach each fillet to the ceiling and mark the trim points on the lamellas. It is easier to draw a line from the trimming point to the other edge of the skirting board, and then trim along the drawn strokes.
6. As soon as the trimming is finished, attach the skirting boards to the ceiling and join them in the installation area. The absence of irregularities, cracks and the tightness of the joint will indicate that the work was carried out correctly.

If errors remain, for example, a gap between fillets, putty, sealant will help out. The composition will fill the void without compromising the appearance of the skirting board.

How to make a miter box yourself

It is not always possible to buy a tool, and then the question arises, how to cut the ceiling plinth perfectly straight? Make a miter box from the material at hand. The master will need a sheet of paper or wooden dice. The paper version is suitable for a small amount of work, but the wooden one is for more serious processes, for example, when decorating ceilings with moldings throughout the apartment.

Paper miter box

A little blueprint skill will come in handy. For manufacturing you will need: Whatman paper or cardboard, a protractor and a pencil.

First, make a tool template:

• draw two parallel lines and determine the center point of each of them;
• put the corners of the desired degree on paper with a protractor;
• check the distance between the walls with a corner, also measure them with a protractor, and only after that you can start trimming.

Advice! The right side of the element is cut from the left side, the left side is mirrored, that is, from the right. However, in the miter box, the parts are placed in the reverse order: the right side is on the left side, the left side is on the right. The main thing is not to confuse.

After the trimming is completed, the details are applied to the ceiling, and you already know how to join the ceiling plinth in the corners: without gaps, gaps and with the most tight fit.

DIY wooden miter box

Masters are offered two options for manufacturing the device:

1. Take 3 planks or plywood planks. Then, with the help of nails and a hammer, depict the figure with the letter "P". After that, mark the corners of the desired degree on the sides of the form and make cuts. It turns out a miter box with holes cut with a hacksaw. It is suitable for trimming fillets from any material - the corners here are cut with the degree that is needed exactly for your room.
2. A versatile option made of wood and paper. You will need 2 boards or plywood dies, from which a regular corner is hammered together. Using a pencil on thick cardboard, draw cut angle lines of 90 or 45 degrees (you can draw any angle of the notch that is needed in this particular room). Now it remains to place the ceiling plinth on the miter box, pressing the fillet with your left hand. The template is positioned directly at the cutting point and can be cut exactly along the line drawn on the cardboard.

After trimming, align the fillets again, attach to the ceiling and, if necessary, modify. The second option, with the manufacture of a paper-and-wood miter box, almost always provides perfect trimming.

Craftsmen also use the third method of replacing a store product, but this is only for specialists. Any object that forms an angle is taken (you can work on a table with even corners). Before you start cutting, measurements are taken, and for the inner corner, the length is measured precisely from the corner. And for trimming the outer corner, a reference point with the expectation that the plinth protrudes into the room at a distance of the fillet width. Once the measurements and calculations are completed, you can cut.

That's all the wisdom on how to cut a corner on a ceiling plinth using a purchased miter box or scrap materials. The work is not difficult, but it requires special attention. Do not be upset if there are gaps, cracks or the junction is not quite tight. Putty mixture, acrylic sealant will help to correct defects and decorate the ceiling plinth without compromising aesthetics.

When installing platbands, floor and ceiling skirting boards, it becomes necessary to saw blanks at a right angle, as well as at an angle of 45 degrees. Despite the simplicity of the products, the accuracy and quality of the cut play a decisive role.

If the angles do not match, the pairing turns out to be ugly, and sometimes it is not possible to connect such halves.

If mistakes on plastic ceiling moldings can be corrected with plaster, which will not be visible during painting, then with a wooden floor plinth, and especially platbands around the door, this trick will not work.

Quite a long time ago, when all the skirting boards were made of wood or plaster, the problem of geometrically correct cuts was solved once and for all. Craftsmen invented a device called a joinery miter box.

A good oak miter box has worked for decades and has been inherited. And gypsum stucco molding was generally made immediately of the required shape. Today, with a variety of molded moldings, every homeowner can make a ceiling "like in Smolny". But to fit and cut the workpieces correctly, you need to understand how the miter box works.

The principle of operation is simple. The device is a profile in the shape of an inverted letter "P", in the inner corner of which the workpiece is placed. On the vertical walls, cuts are made at the desired angle along which the saw blade or knife moves.

It is desirable that the material of the miter box is stronger than the material of the workpiece. Otherwise, the device will wear out quickly. The grooves are quickly shattered by the saw teeth and the workpiece becomes less precise. Another problem is saw tooth alignment.

This forces an increase in the width of the groove in the miter box. Modern products are made from durable plastics, hard composites based on chipboard, or metal. Any angle in professional moths can be set, the rotation of the hacksaw blade is fixed with magnets.

Moreover, the most advanced models are sold complete with hacksaws. The design even includes guide rollers so that the canvas does not "walk" during operation. Cutting errors are minimized.

How to use the miter box correctly

The workpiece with its wide sides is pressed against the sole and the inner side of the side wall of the miter box. The teeth of the hacksaw blade are directed towards the thrust wall, in the same direction the force is applied.

The movements are smooth and wide. We must try to make the hacksaw go as far as possible over the workpiece. The fewer movements you make when cutting, the better the cut will be.

Carrying out repairs or any type of construction work is rarely complete without cutting parts at a certain angle, for example, forty-five degrees. Usually, both wooden and ceiling skirting boards, door and window frames, moldings and cable ducts are subject to such processing. As a rule, this process is carried out with the help of a miter box, which is not at all difficult to do on your own from improvised means.

Pros and cons of homemade miter box

If we talk about the advantages of a home-made miter box, then it is worth starting with the ability to choose the optimal length of the device, which is extremely important in cases where long elements are processed, for example, plinths. In addition, several cutting corners can be placed on one box, and select only those that are most often required.

By choosing a resistant and durable material, it will be possible to increase the service life and protect the device from all kinds of damage.

A miter box is created literally in a few hours from scrap materials. For example, if the household has a supply of previously used boards, then the manufacture of a sawing device is completely free.

We must not forget that purchased miter boxes are usually made of plastic. This material can hardly be called durable and reliable., and after several of its uses, deformation of the grooves is often found, which negatively affects the direct performance of work.

It makes sense to mention the high cost of purchased equipment. As a result, it is easy to conclude that a home-made miter box has no disadvantages - only solid advantages. The only thing that can be noted is the inability to match the expensive high-tech electric models. The latter are a combination of a swivel miter box and an electric cooker, complete with laser marking.

The subtleties of choosing a saw

Even before you start creating a miter box, you will need to choose the right hacksaw. A quality tool has small teeth, thin blades, high rigidity and strength... The small size of the teeth allows for a neat cut that does not spoil the condition of the wood surface. The fineness of the blades ensures more precise cuts- straight on the marked line.

In the case of the stiffness of the web, the required state is achieved with the help of an additional element called the backing.

If skirting boards or polyurethane stucco molding are to be processed, then the hacksaw must necessarily be made of metal.

Tools and materials

Usually, a homemade miter box is made of high-quality and dry wood, without chips or other damage.

Experts recommend choosing hard varieties, but if this is not possible, then take a board made of conifers, the thickness of which exceeds 2 centimeters. If oak or ash is purchased, the thickness of the material may be reduced to one and a half or even one centimeter.

The blanks for the miter box must have right angles and be polished with high quality. Professionals do not advise using plastic, since this material is not durable and easily deteriorates during work processes.

In addition to the main material, to create a miter box, you will need a pencil with a ruler, sandpaper, a vice, a hacksaw with small teeth, a drill with drills, as well as confirmations. The hexagon used to twist the confirmations will also not interfere.

How to do it yourself?

Numerous drawings available on the Internet allow you to make various variations of the miter box, from the simplest to the more complex.

As a rule, guide slots are made for the device in the tray, but if you wish, you can add a straight groove, as well as built-in stops and clamps.

The width of the miter box is determined depending on the available blanks. It is usually based on the parameters of the materials being processed. For example, the width of the miter box can correspond to the width of the plinth, equal to 150 millimeters. It is recommended to make the sides of the same size as the plinth for greater convenience. On average, the width of the sides will vary from 1 to 2 centimeters, the height will vary from 3 to 5 centimeters, and the length will be 25 centimeters. Alternatively, in the case of ceiling plinths, a three-centimeter height is used, and a five-centimeter height for wooden floor skirtings.

Making the simplest miter box begins with creating a box. Two absolutely identical sidewalls are sawn out, and the base is prepared. The elements used are fixed on self-tapping screws, in addition, dowels are additionally glued. For a more reliable fixation, it is worth thinking about the use of a clamp. All excess adhesive fragments are carefully removed with a cloth, and the structure is removed to dry.

At the next stage, markings are formed on the surface, including for confirmations. At the sides, you need to find the middle, and then select the angles of 90 and 45 degrees on both sides. To make diagonal cuts, you need a metal hacksaw to achieve the required depth.... It is already necessary to widen the hole using a hacksaw for wood, a two-layer coarse-grained sandpaper or a circular saw. The cutting depth must not exceed the base point of the miter box... At the end, an optional perpendicular hole is formed, which is suitable for cutting frets at an angle of 90 degrees.

Everything ends with cleaning the cuts from the inside of the holes.

It is important to mention that experts advise making cuts even at the stage when they are not attached to the base.

In this case, the walls are located next to each other and clamped with a vice. Marking is the most important step in making a miter box., as erroneous calculations will lead to the appearance of equipment that cannot be used. All points and lines have to be rechecked several times.

When holes were made on unconnected boards, they must be connected in the future. The sides and base are combined at an angle of 90 degrees so that the joint occurs with the ends.

In certain places cut through holes for confirmations. It is better to make the hole using drills of different diameters.- create a recess with large ones, and then set the exact direction with small ones. The structure is connected with confirmations and cuts are added to the base.

Some experts also advise adding rubber to the lower part of the miter box so that the fixture does not slip, and processing can take place on any surface.

The swivel miter box has a fixed base and a swivel part that allows you to create the most accurate cut. The hand saw is also movable in this case.

Most often, the rotary device is made of metal., so making it at home is quite difficult. The swivel miter box has angles from 15 to 135 degrees. The length of the rotating hacksaw is 60 centimeters. This device is perfect for cutting stucco moldings.

The magnetic miter box is very popular, in which the hacksaw blade is held by magnets. There are several versions of this device, for example, in the form of a compact square with magnets on both sides, with a retainer or U-shaped with eccentrics. It is also difficult to develop a magnetic device on your own.

Using a miter box is not difficult at all and is within the power of everyone. First, markings are made on the material to be cut for further cuts. Next, the part is placed in the miter box so that these marks coincide with its slots, and, if possible, is additionally fixed. Finally, the cutting itself is performed with a hand hacksaw, for the evenness of which are the walls of the miter box, which play the role of guides.

If we are talking about a rotary miter box, then the workpiece to be processed is first fixed on the board with special clamps. The cutting point is marked on it, after which the lower part is set according to the mark, the cut is made.

The electric miter box allows you to fix the board on the device, make markings with special drawing equipment, and then make a cut thanks to a special angle. Before starting work, experts advise you to practice on unnecessary boards or scraps in order to understand the features of the process.

The material should always be measured with a margin of five centimeters to avoid errors. In addition, it is important to place the skirting boards in the miter box in the same position in which they will be installed in the room. This will avoid uneven joints after the adjustment.

During construction or repair work, it may be necessary to cut the part at an angle of 45 degrees. For example, when installing skirting boards that are attached to the outer and inner corners. If you do not have a dedicated tool, this process can be difficult and stall all activities. In this case, a home-made miter box will come to the rescue.

Of course, you can not bother, but simply go to the store and purchase the necessary tool, however, only plastic miter boxes are on sale, which are fragile and high cost. After making a few cuts, you will notice how the grooves of the tool have widened, and it simply will not work to do the job efficiently at an angle of 45 degrees.

Manufacturing

The problem can be solved quite simply by making this tool yourself, spending a minimum of time, effort and materials. Also, an undoubted plus is the fact that you yourself can determine the length of the miter box, which is important in the manufacture of long elements, such as plinths or platbands.

Note! The design of the miter box provides for the presence of guiding slots in a wooden or plastic tray. In some cases, a straight groove can be made for sawing boards. A more complex mechanical version of the miter box is equipped with built-in stops and clamps. In addition, the set includes butt and bow saws.

Usage

The use of a miter box should not cause any difficulties: marks are made on the material in the necessary places and placed in the tool in such a way that the markings ideally coincide with the cut along which the cut should be made. Thanks to the walls of the miter box, which act as guides, the material will not move, and the cut will be accurate.

Production technology

The material for independent production is wood, since plastic production is possible only in industry. It is necessary to choose a hard type of wood, as a last resort, use a coniferous board, but with a thickness of at least 2 centimeters. If you are using ash or oak, then the thickness can be reduced to 1-1.5 centimeters. The workpieces must be perfectly flat with 90 degree angles.

Wooden miter box

The width of the tool bed is selected based on the workpieces used. As a rule, the width of the plinth is 150 mm, so the size of the miter box should be made the same, the sides are made of the same size, otherwise you will experience discomfort when working with a cutting tool, or the saw will jump out of the groove.

1. Initially, a box for the miter box is constructed by attaching the elements to self-tapping screws and additionally gluing dowels. After securely fixing the screws, it is necessary to additionally secure the elements of the miter box with a clamp. If excess glue appears, remove it with a cloth. Leave the tray to dry completely.
2. The next step is to complete the markup. On the end side of the miter box, a perpendicular line is drawn and the same is done on the opposite side. Next, the width of the miter box is measured along with the sides. An indent is made from the ready-made marks equal to the width of the box. Having visually projected all the marks onto a flat surface, you should get a square.
3. Recheck the marks made several times, since it is the accuracy of their implementation that will affect the quality of work and the evenness of the cuts made. Make sure the lines are spacing and parallel several times.
4. Then, using a sharp hacksaw, cut diagonally into the sides of the miter box. Do this carefully, observing all the labels. To widen the produced slots, sand them with coarse sandpaper folded in two layers. If a perpendicular groove is required, follow the same procedure.

This tool is absolutely not difficult to use, you just need to take into account some rules:

If throughout the entire manufacturing process you strictly followed the technology, a hand-made miter box will not be inferior in quality to a store tool. In addition, you can make more than one such tool to make it easier to work with various materials and elements.

Framing ceilings and flooring requires trimming evenly at the corners. In order for the ends of the skirting board to exactly touch each other in the corners of the apartment, without forming gaps, it is necessary to make even cuts.

A tool that helps you make exactly the right cuts for each other is called a miter box.

What is a miter box for skirting boards, what is its price, is it possible to make such a tool on your own, with your own hands, how to use it correctly for processing skirting boards, which skirting board to choose - questions that our article will answer.

General information

What is a miter box for skirting boards

This word comes from the German word "Stoß" - "joint". The word "Stoßlade" means "miter box." The miter box is a carpentry tool designed for sawing materials at a certain angle.

It is a slanted tray. This tray resembles an inverted U. The width of each slot is such that it should fit a hacksaw blade for sawing skirting boards. The slots are made on the side strips, which are placed on a 150 mm wide board. Side strips have 3 or more slots. Wood, plastic and polyurethane are cut with this carpentry tool.

What are the miter boxes used for?

The miter box carpentry tool is used for:

1. processing of window and door frames;
2. manufacturing of platbands;
3. cornices, glazing beads (for fixing glasses);
4. sawing cable - channels;
5. for making baguette frames for photographs and paintings;
6. cutting the corners of the skirting boards.

Classification of the miter box

This carpentry tool is divided according to design features and material of manufacture.

By design features, tools are classified into simple, rotary and electrical.

Plain or regular miter boxes are stereotyped and not adjustable. The material is cut only at the angle set in the slots. Basically, there are 3 slots in such miter boxes, but there are miter boxes that have a larger number of grooves - up to 12 pieces. It includes not only the angles of 45 and 90 degrees. but also others: 15 degrees, 60,135,30.

The width of the miter box is much larger than the dimensions of the material to be cut. Therefore, it is necessary to select a clamp with which the workpiece is attached to the miter box, and then sawed off. The clamp helps to secure the workpiece so that it cannot budge. If there is no clamp, then when sawing off the plinth, you need to hold it with your hand.

Some miter boxes have a perforated bottom in which pin-shaped stoppers are built in. It is important to take into account the size of the blade when choosing a hacksaw for sawing off a workpiece with a miter box. The width of the blade should match the width of the slot. If the web is too thick, the slit will increase in size.

The miter box will be damaged, as will the cutting edge of the hacksaw. It is best to buy a set, which, in addition to the miter box, includes a hacksaw. The set is selected so that the width of the hacksaw fully fits the slot of the miter box. Sometimes there is an overlay on top of the hacksaw, which prevents the cutting edge from touching the bottom of the miter box, serves as a limiter. Thus, both the miter box and the hacksaw will not suffer when cutting parts. In addition, the pad increases the rigidity of the hacksaw.

The rotary miter box allows you to shift the direction of the blade relative to the plane of the part, change the angle of inclination. (15 degrees, 22,5,30,90,45,60.) The rotary miter box helps to accurately adjust the saw cut to a fraction of a degree, ensures the correct setting of the cutting tool.

The design of the rotary miter box depends on the purpose, functionality and processing goals of the product. The classic swivel miter box is a base made of metal or durable plastic, and on which the turntable is installed. A fixed frame with a hacksaw is attached to it on 4 pins. Using a special scale, the cutting angle is set. The workpiece is placed in the tray and secured.

There are other more precise pivoting moulders. This:

The electric miter box helps you cut material with filigree precision. This is a tool, which is an electric saw mounted on a rotary base. The disadvantage of an electric miter box is its high price and bulky dimensions.

Professionals offer a tool that can replace an electric miter box, but the quality and accuracy of the cut will not be affected. This is a precision tilt-and-turn miter box, a professional hand tool for DIYers. This tool is a precision saw in special guides. The saw is locked at the desired angle. This miter box is made of metal and plastic.

According to the material of manufacture, they are:

• wooden;
• made of plastic;
• metal.

Wooden miter boxes are rare lately. It is difficult to acquire it on the market. Until recently, wooden moths were common, but with the advent of plastic and metal, they were less commonly used. When using them, be careful, careless handling of the hacksaw can damage the miter box. In order not to damage it, you need to take a special saw that cuts only the baseboard.

Plastic the tools are inexpensive, have a variety of standard sizes, and are light in weight. But they have one important drawback. They quickly deteriorate due to the fact that their width increases each time and, finally, reaches a size that exceeds the permissible norm. As a result, the hacksaw takes an unstable position, the cuts are uneven and inaccurate.

Metallic miter boxes are durable material. They are made from steel or aluminum. Long service life, reliability of the tool are reflected in its price: it is high. The cuts on this tool are very accurate. They are mainly used by professionals.

How to choose a miter box

To choose the right miter box, you need to pay attention to well-known, proven brands. Thus, the Fit 41255 model is made of hard plastic. It can cut wood, plastic and metal workpieces. The width of the part to be sawed off is 120mm. Workpieces can be sawn off at angles of 45,90,22.5 and 135 degrees. Equipped with a butt saw.

• "Stanley1-20-112" renowned among craftsmen for its precision and cut quality. The cuts are made at an angle of 22.5, 45 and 90 degrees in the vertical plane and 45 in the horizontal plane. The eccentrics secure the workpieces firmly. The miter box is made of impact-resistant plastic.
• "Zubr15375-75" Also appreciated by craftsmen, it allows you to accurately make cuts. It is made of durable ABC plastic, so it is strong and reliable for a long time.
• Chair "Stayer 15402" - professional carpentry tool, which differs from others in that the part can be sawed in the range from 0 to 180 degrees, the graduation step is 15 degrees. The fixing screw fixes the part firmly.

Professional miter boxes cut the corner better and more accurately.

• "Fit Profi 41321"-turning miter box supplied with the steel saw. The part is securely fixed with a clamp. The miter box is made of steel, aluminum or plastic. The length of the working part is 60cm.
• "Сhampion180" has a length of half a meter. This swivel miter box fixes products at 45 and 90 degrees, but at the same time can process polygonal parts (four, five, six, eight and 12 angle) The miter box is equipped with a bow saw with a pitch of 1.4 mm. The maximum width of the workpiece is 20 cm. The depth of processing is 20 cm.
• Miter box "Zubr-saw" - professional works in horizontal and vertical planes. The swivel device allows you to saw off workpieces from non-ferrous metal, alloys and steel. The scale determines the rotation of the saw by the required angle. The rigidity and strength of the miter saw blade helps you cut the corner of the skirting board with filigree precision.
• Miter saw "Stayer" allows you to work without additional measuring tools, because its base is marked. The metal base is strong, the maximum width of the workpiece, which fits on it, is 160mm. Cutting depth 600mm. Adjustment of the saw tension, its different rotation and inclination contributes to accurate cutting of workpieces.
• Miter box "Kupper" has great functionality. It not only rotates through a certain angle, but also the carriage moves along the miter box body along the guide. This ability of the carriage helps to fix it in the right place on the workpiece. The part that needs to be cut, while remaining stationary, is fixed with removable clamps. When processing material in the vertical plane, there is a hinge with a scale. The workpiece can be processed in the vertical and horizontal planes at the same time. On this miter box, you can achieve the desired cutting depth, which helps in the manufacture of parts with spikes. The workpiece diameter can be up to 150 mm.

Instructions for using the miter box

The miter box is placed on the work table and fixed with screws or a clamp. The workpiece must be marked, then inserted into the miter box tray so that the mark is opposite the required cut. Press the workpiece by hand or secure it. A hacksaw is inserted into the cut and the workpiece is cut at a certain angle. It is necessary to use a special butt hacksaw so that the cut is accurate and accurate. Insert the second workpiece with the other side and make a cut. Remove any irregularities with fine sandpaper.

You can buy a miter box in a store, in the market, or make yourself.

Benefits of a homemade miter box

Making a miter box with your own hands has a number of advantages:

1. small consumption of materials remaining after the repair. Making a tool with your own hands does not require investment;
2. for the manufacture of the miter box, you use a strong, reliable, environmentally friendly material;
3. you can create a multifunctional work tool that will serve you for many years;
4. you can make grooves at such angles as you need, but for this you need to correctly calculate and mark the materials for work;
5. the fast production method does not require significant labor efforts from you.

How to make a miter box with your own hands

Before starting work on making a miter box with your own hands, you need to prepare high-quality material. The wood must be well dried, with a smooth surface, free from defects and dents. It is better not to take plastic for an independent miter box, because it can be damaged during its manufacture. The thickness of the boards should be about 2cm. Prepare a ruler and a pencil, fine sandpaper, a vise, a drill with a set of drills, euro screws and a hex wrench for tightening them. hacksaw for metal.

Make the side walls of the miter box. They can be made from 1cm thick plywood or 2cm thick boards. The height of each of the boards can vary from 30 to 50mm, the length is 25cm, but not more, too long boards will interfere with work. On the surface of the boards, make marks to indicate the holes for the screws, and then mark the cuts.

To do this, precisely connect two workpieces, holding them together with a vice. In the middle of the line, mark with a pencil or marker. Mark the corners of 45 and 90 degrees on the opposite edges. Make cuts with a metal hacksaw. The cutting depth should be considerable, but not reach the bottom of the miter box. Make a cut perpendicular to this one. Clean the cuts with fine sandpaper. Now you need to connect the sides to the base. Connect the end sides of the bottom of the future miter box with the side boards.

Drill holes along the marks on the sides of the miter box intended for confirmation. Pull the boards together with screws. It is best to make a hole in the middle of the base to connect to the work table. In the process of making a miter box yourself, do not use glue, because a collapsible tool is more convenient than a glued one. It is important to reinforce a piece of rubber on the back of the work surface to keep the tool stationary. The width of the base of the miter box depends on the size of the processed materials.

Attention: the right side of the skirting board must be placed in the tool from the right side, and the cut off corner - in the left. And vice versa: the left side of the plinth is on the left side of the miter box, and the corner to be sawn off is on the right side.

How to cut a skirting board without a miter box

To hide the uneven border between the walls and the ceiling, you can cut the inner and outer corners of the skirting board without a miter box. It would seem that there is nothing easier in cutting off the edges of the ceiling plinths: I made a 45-degree angle on each fillet and glued one to the other.

However, this is not the case, because the angles in apartments, especially in old buildings, are not the same. One corner of the room can be 93 degrees, another 87, the third 91, etc. Due to the fact that the corners of the apartment are not the same, when the edges of the skirting boards cut at 45 degrees are joined, gaps are formed between them that violate the harmony of the interior. So that there are no gaps between the skirting boards, you must accurately and strictly follow our advice.

To correctly cut corners without a miter box, you need:

• prepare a cutting tool. This can be a metal saw or a sharp knife. Take a ceiling plinth (in another way it is called a fillet) and attach it to the corner of the ceiling as you will glue it;
• draw a line along the plinth on the ceiling, and then remove the part;
• the next step is to apply another fillet to this corner and draw a line along it. Removing the skirting board, you will see the markings on the ceiling. Lines from two skirting boards will intersect at a certain point in the corner;
• reattach the first skirting board to the ceiling along the markings and mark the intersection point on the inside of it. Then remove the baseboard;
• from the marked point, draw a line to the opposite corner of the fillet. This will be the place where the skirting board is cut. Do the same with the other skirting board. Next, cut the inner corner with a sharp knife along the drawn line. Place the cut skirting boards one on top of the other in the corner of the room. If there are no gaps between them, then you can stick them. If the gap is still visible, then correct it with a knife.

If the angle in the apartment is exactly 90 degrees, then it is best to use the second method. It is necessary to take cardboard and draw two parallel lines at a distance greater than the width of the plinth. Next, mark the center between them and attach a protractor. Mark the 45 degree angle. Place a piece of cardboard against the corner to check that the markings are correct. Transfer the markings to the plinth, attaching its bottom edge to one of the lines, cut off the corner on the fillet with a sharp knife. Do the same with the other skirting board.

The next option for cutting the inner corner of the skirting board without a miter box is also simple and interesting, does not require much labor. Measure the end of the skirting board and measure this distance from its edge. Draw a diagonal between the bottom edge mark and the top corner of the skirting board. A 45 degree angle will be accurate. Cut the inner corner along the line. Cut the second skirting board in mirror image.

Outcomes

Today about what a miter box is, what a given joiner's tool is. We explained to you what parts and how you can cut with different types of miter boxes, we offered you high-quality models of well-known brands. Instructions on how to make a miter box with your own hands can help you save money and not purchase it for your home workshop, but make it yourself.

Sometimes skirting boards can be cut without a miter box. We have explained in detail how you can cut the exact angle of the skirting boards without using a miter box. After reading the article, you think over all the pros and cons of this or that way of cutting the corners of the plinth and choose the most suitable one for you and your conditions.

We hope that our tips will help you to neatly cut the corners of the skirting boards, giving your renovation a perfection and an attractive appearance.